Boxerworks.com

gspd wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 8:43 pm The easy way is to remove the rods and spin the crank with the starter motor and make sure oil comes out of both journals.
It might shoot out all over the place so you should wrap a piece of rag loosely around each journal (held with tape or a zip tie) to minimize the mess.

So I should have oil in the sump, then, and a freshly installed oil filter, o-ring, spacer, etc. alright. Gonna finish cleaning out the sump (it needed it: https://imgur.com/a/K52DOIe), replace the oil pressure sensor, etc, get all that out back together, and get the connecting rods off once more.

gspd wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 8:43 pm The easy way is to remove the rods and spin the crank with the starter motor and make sure oil comes out of both journals.
It might shoot out all over the place so you should wrap a piece of rag loosely around each journal (held with tape or a zip tie) to minimize the mess.

I ended up doing this. Confirmed, there *is* indeed oil flow through the conrods journal holes. Both of them. We then proceeded to reassemble the cylenders and heads onto either side. There was about a 2-3mm gap between the base of the cylinder and the face of the engine block where the two meet, but minimal torque on the valve nuts closed those gaps on both sides with ease.

It took a bit to figure out how the rocker arm bearing spindle was supposed to be configured, but i eventually did.

A question I have is about the rocker arm supports. They have a slit on them. Which direction are the slits supposed to face? Does it matter? I didn't notice that they had slits (or, more accurately, that their positioning might matter) until after both sides were done. Both sides produced what felt like a serviceable amount of oil. I'm unsure if the slits should face each other or face away from each other.

Running the starter motor for a good 25-30 ish seconds produced ample flow through the valve rocker assemblies, and the next steps are to adjust valve clearances and rocker arm side movement clearance, then I get to see how well she runs. My hope is that she runs a bit better, considering many components are new and now clean. (We cleaned off as much carbon build up we could off the inside of the heads and off the face of the pistons).

If you are ging to use sealant on the base joint (shouldn't be necessary but if there is slight damage to the mating faces, it can save the day) be very careful and only use the minimum amount in the vicinity of the top stud galleries. even slightly too much can be squeezed into the galleries and will stop the flow of oil to the rockers. If you have used the sealant be very sure to check the flow of oil to the heads...

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 4:46 am If you are ging to use sealant on the base joint (shouldn't be necessary but if there is slight damage to the mating faces, it can save the day) be very careful and only use the minimum amount in the vicinity of the top stud galleries. even slightly too much can be squeezed into the galleries and will stop the flow of oil to the rockers. If you have used the sealant be very sure to check the flow of oil to the heads...

Rob

No sealant was used. Fresh gaskets/o-rings only.

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 2:50 am A question I have is about the rocker arm supports. They have a slit on them. Which direction are the slits supposed to face? Does it matter? I didn't notice that they had slits (or, more accurately, that their positioning might matter) until after both sides were done. Both sides produced what felt like a serviceable amount of oil. I'm unsure if the slits should face each other or face away from each other.

The slits face away from each other, so oil flows out of them on to the valve stems.
The shafts have a dot on one end,
The dot goes on top, towards the outside.

gspd wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 6:11 am The slits face away from each other, so oil flows out of them on to the valve stems.
The shafts have a dot on one end,
The dot goes on top, towards the outside.

Okay. I got the slits wrong on one side, then. I did install the posts correctly though. Gonna be fixing that and then adjusting valve clearances today before putting the carbs Back on and giving it a test run.

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri Jul 15, 2022 11:24 pm Alright guys. Take a look at this.

https://imgur.com/a/5hmHLD4

what do you think?

Those journals are stuffed and beyond a simple polish.

jackonz wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 7:04 pm

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri Jul 15, 2022 11:24 pm Alright guys. Take a look at this.

https://imgur.com/a/5hmHLD4

what do you think?

Those journals are stuffed and beyond a simple polish.

It’s certainly possible! Luckily I already have all the know how of how to get half-way to the crank shaft if I end up needing to replace it.

she’s running once more.

Good job!
Sounds a lot better than your first video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=barWV7RWkq0

Are you sure you have the valve covers on the correct sides?
The fins on the covers should be parallel to the header pipe, yours look angled down at the rear.
Inside each cover it will say left or right in german.
Rookie mistake.
Might just be camera angle.