Parts sourcing - Top-End Rebuild?

[kmisterk]

Good job!
Sounds a lot better than your first video.

Bahaha yes. You’re totally right. But that’s a pretty low bar. Lmao.

Are you sure you have the valve covers on the correct sides?
The fins on the covers should be parallel to the header pipe, yours look angled down at the rear.
Inside each cover it will say left or right in german.
Rookie mistake.
Might just be camera angle.

Totally are. I’ll fix that when I’m next at the bike.

So with no load it ran and sounded great. I got on for a quick ride…like not even a total of a quarter mile, (around my parents property, basically, didn’t get out of first gear cause I adjusted the foot pegs wrong and it wouldn’t shift up…) aaaaaaaand it lost power and quit running. Won’t start now.

There’s a small possibility I put a tad too much oil in after the most recent top up. >.<

EDIT

I just realized the petcocks were set to off. So, realistically that’s why it stopped running. I’ve left the bike for the night but I will report back again when I finally go back and adjust the foot pegs and give it another ride.

[gspd]

There’s a small possibility I put a tad too much oil in after the most recent top up. >.<

Just for the record, overfilling the oil can't make the engine stop.
It will just puke it out the breather.
The proper level is BETWEEN the marks on the dipstick when cold.
Filling it to the top mark is not recommended even if instinctively 'feels better'.

Change your oil as soon as it looks 'not new and clean' and that crank will purr for a long while. Drain the pan and refill it with clean oil really often, like every 1500 to 2000 miles; it's quick and easy, and cheap insurance.
You don't have to change the filter (PITA) at every oil change, every 4000 to 6000 miles should suffice.

It's a good habit to always turn the fuel off when parked.
And back on when running.

Good luck!

[kmisterk]

Just for the record, overfilling the oil can't make the engine stop.
It will just puke it out the breather.
The proper level is BETWEEN the marks on the dipstick when cold.
Filling it to the top mark is not recommended even if instinctively 'feels better'.

Noted. yeah, I didn't *think* overfilling would kill it, but it was initially the only thing I could think of.

Change your oil as soon as it looks 'not new and clean' and that crank will purr for a long while. Drain the pan and refill it with clean oil really often, like every 1500 to 2000 miles; it's quick and easy, and cheap insurance.

Yeah, seems easy enough to make this happen

You don't have to change the filter (PITA) at every oil change, every 4000 to 6000 miles should suffice.

Oh thank god. That step is a *verifiable* PITA.

It's a good habit to always turn the fuel off when parked.

But I...

And back on when running.

Oh. heh heh... riiiiight. Always two sides to a...coin.

Thanks again for all your help through this endeavor! It's been...a unique ride, for lack of a better word lol.

Also, in semi-related news, my brother, an automotive mechanic by trade (or, well, formerly. Still the best mechanic in the family) had so much fun helping and watching me work on my bike that he went and bought an '02 1150RT. With no compression in 1 cylinder. Lol. We're both excited to get that bad boy up and running.

Anyway.

Cheers!

[gspd]

Also, in semi-related news, my brother, an automotive mechanic by trade (or, well, formerly. Still the best mechanic in the family) had so much fun helping and watching me work on my bike that he went and bought an '02 1150RT. With no compression in 1 cylinder.

I hate oilheads. Airheads rule!
none the less, my prediction:
You'll find an exhaust valve that looks like this:

download.jpg (3.44 KiB) Viewed 977 times

Let me know if I'm right.

[SteveD]

The rockers also have a R or a L embossed on the outer. Rechts or Links written on the inside.

[kmisterk]

I hate oilheads. Airheads rule!

I have to agree here

none the less, my prediction:
You'll find an exhaust valve that looks like this:

Let me know if I'm right.

The gentleman he got it from seems to think it’s bad crankshaft bearings. My brother thinks basically the same as you. He’s ready to do an engine swap if need be but he’s hopeful.

The rockers also have a R or a L embossed on the outer. Rechts or Links written on the inside.

Ha. I probably completely glazed over this lmao. I’ll swap the covers when I go back there tonight.

[gspd]

The rockers also have a R or a L embossed on the outer.

Forgot about that. It's only on one side of the cover. I wonder if the factory intended it to be on the top or on the bottom?

The gentleman he got it from seems to think it’s bad crankshaft bearings. My brother thinks basically the same as you. He’s ready to do an engine swap if need be but he’s hopeful.

Bad crankshaft bearings cause low oil pressure, not low (or no) compression.

[SteveD]

The rockers also have a R or a L embossed on the outer.

Forgot about that. It's only on one side of the cover. I wonder if the factory intended it to be on the top or on the bottom?

I have the R one on the top. The L one looks to be underneath.

[kmisterk]

Alright. Swapped the valve covers back and adjusted the foot pegs to my liking and went on a ride. Sounds like I still may have some kind of knock.

[gspd]

Oh shit! Sounds like you really need to find a used crank, or someone to regrind yours.
In all fairness, this method has worked out well countless times in the past.
You win a few, you lose a few.
It was worth a try.

Really sorry for the wasted time and expenditures.

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