Boxerworks.com

Sorry Jean - I want to put a new input seal on it before I install.
It should be here tomorrow or Thurs.

Because it's leaking, or because you are doing it since it's easy to do NOW, rather than later?
Both of which are correct answers.
Gee, Rob....it's like waiting for Santa....Hurry-up and wait.
ARe WE there YET????

Well, the front of the case was very dirty, so either this seal leaked or it was replaced w/o cleaning. Of course, the rest of the case was dirty, also - but Mikey did warn me! I got the dirt off, but there is still so much patina, it makes my old transmission look clean! And most here know I don't spend a lot of time cleaning...
I scrubbed and scrubbed with Simple Green and SOS pad (maybe I have the wrong model scrubbing pad?), but once the top layer of dirt was off, there wasn't any more action. Oh well.
I'm putting in a new shift seal, too. As near as I can recall, my old box still had the original in it!

Best way to remove the input seal? Screw a couple of screws into it and pull?

Install - cover the splines with something to protect the seal?

Thanks.

Observe, measure, LOOK carefully...at how deep the old seal is installed in the bore. (Good idea to do this with ALL seal-replacement jobs!) Install new seal same IF old seal and new seal are same depth on the casing. Watch out for the direction of the lip, etc.
Screws are an acceptable way to remove old seal. Be careful not to get into the case sides!
Yeah, protect the seal from the splines. If you are going for FANCY, a piece of plastic cut from a detergent bottle and rolled around the spline is nice. Tape also get the job done. It'll stick to itself but probably not to the spline. Put some grease on the seal (lightly) to help slide it on without damage.
I used a piece of 3" PVC coupling from LOWES for the rear main seal installation. You may find a similar tool to be just right.
Maybe a 2" or 2-1/2" coupling...whatever is the size of the seal and fits over the shaft! Tap it in, don't bang on it. You want it to go in straight.
I put a new shifter-shaft seal in mine also, btw. It wasn't REAL tight in the housing. I used a socket for the tool...with a soft-face hammer(hard nylon). DO NOT beat on your sockets with a steel hammer. The tool-gods will get you.

Thanks for the tips, Jean.
I also know to be very careful on the shift seal, making sure it is not cocked. Not only will it possibly affect the sealing properties, but more likely it can affect the shifting.

So I have to take my box to Lowes with me, eh?
Ah - I guess I could just measure the input shaft with calipers and take the measurement with me!

And the parts arrived today!!!

Watch out you don't push the seal into the box when drilling and screwing!

Maybe I'm just dreaming again.

Uh-huh, Rob, BE careful when drilling a pilot for those screws...Also smear some grease on the drill-bit to catch the chips.
Measure the shaft, take the seal. No need to take box to store!!

I was teasing, Jean.
I measured the shaft, wrote the # down, and I have my calipers in car to take in the store with me, this evening.

I was not aware that the seal could be pushed into the box. Thanks for that warning!

Last night I installed the shift seal and lever, and put in a new switch w/crush ring, and I installed the drain plug with a new crush ring. Darn! I forgot to drill the plug for safety wire!

I hope to test ride on Sunday.

It's not open bloody heart surgery or rocket science.

As long as the old seal comes out without wrecking anything and the new seal goes in square and to the correct depth, all is good.
For the input shaft seal (with the shaft in place) I use long sharpened thin flat blade screwdriver, with a piece of clear windshield washer tubing covering all but the tip.(you could use a piece of gas hose, etc.
Jam it in the old seal and pry it out.

When installing a new seal, the first few taps are the most critical, and require the most finesse;
Regardless of the tool used, if you're not really careful, the seal will go in cockeyed.
If it does that, take it out and start over, don't smash the other side to try to make it straight.
Once it's started straight, tapping it home is easy with the improvised tool of your choice...
...like, maybe, an appropriately sized deep socket for instance....

PS - Use too much grease for the installation; the more. the better.
Oh, and, wrap the splines with electric tape.

Hey Rob!!
Be careful which direction you "Drill the Plug".
With your luck, it's be 90-deg to the direction you want.
the oil will get out.