Boxerworks.com

I've created some adapters that, with some modification, allow you to mount 320 and 330mm Ducati rotors and modern Japanese style 4 piston radial calipers on your ATE equiped airhead.
I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on this forum.

If anyone is interested, check out my new Facebook Page.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1114082135373983/

Better brakes are always worth it. Some would think it would be heresy to make such an obvious mod, for almost any other mod I would agree, but great brakes, is taking my life off the line. Brakes are why I sold my /2.

Yep. Nice brakes are, really, all these old reliable machines need. I don't know how I survived this long without them.

mattcfish wrote:Yep. Nice brakes are, really, all these old reliable machines need. I don't know how I survived this long without them.

Did you modify the fork to deal with the stronger brakes?

Heavy Duty springs with 7wt fork oil. No bottoming issues. The thing is, the brakes are there when you need them. Once you get used to not having to be ham fisted with them they are easy to use.

mattcfish wrote:Heavy Duty springs with 7wt fork oil. No bottoming issues. The thing is, the brakes are there when you need them. Once you get used to not having to be ham fisted with them they are easy to use.

What master did you use?

Zombie Master wrote:

mattcfish wrote:Heavy Duty springs with 7wt fork oil. No bottoming issues. The thing is, the brakes are there when you need them. Once you get used to not having to be ham fisted with them they are easy to use.

What master did you use?

2006 GSXR1000 RADIAL NISSIN MASTER CYLINDER (19mm piston).
2011 YAMAHA R6 SUMITOMO MONO BLOCK CALIPERS

The jury is still out on whether or not a stock under tank or bar mount MC will work.
I had already converted to the modern MC before I put the Big Brakes on. No chance to test a stock MC.
In theory the stock MC's with there smaller pistons should deliver more pressure with less effort (only takes two fingers to stop with GSXR MC) at the expense of more travel. The question is...is there enough travel.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =3&theater

And my favorite hand grips!

I guess I'm one of the old school guys who doesn't see any issue with the older ATE setup. At least on my '74 R90s, if properly adjusted, provide plenty of stopping power. I still have the stock rotors but added stainless steel braided linesand EBC pads years ago. (the Ferodo's never did work for me.)

I do Track Days with the bike every few years and a lot of spirited riding and don't have any real issues with the brakes. Maybe it's just me.

I will concede that modern brakes are light years ahead of these old bikes, but I have no real desire to swap out the old setup. Come to think of it, I was perfectly satisfied with the performance of my '73 Toaster's clampers as well.

My daughter says I should be in a nursing home so maybe she's right.

jimmyg

My '66 Honda Superhawk had a twin leading shoe front brake.
After setting it up with new shoes, bedding them in until the they had full contact, and adjusting them to contact simultaneously, I took it for a high speed run.
I braked hard from 120 kph. I was surprised at how effective they were. For about 5 seconds. Then the dreaded "drum brake fade" raised its ugly head. That brought back memories of things I don't want to experience again.
The Superhawk is gone. I now have a Yamaha R3 that STOPS! As soon as the snow flies it will get a ss braided brake line and some high tech pads.
If your bike won't go, that's a drag. If it won't stop, that's scary, and often painful.