Boxerworks.com

So finally I've got my '84 R100 on the work stand. I'm going to inspect and re-lube my tranny input shaft. I did this about 25 years ago and can't remember much of the process. Would it be best to remove the rear wheel before I disconnect the drive from the transmission. I know I have to determine the gap at the swing arm to frame so I keep it centered when I re-assemble.

Neil, you can do the spline lube with minimal removal of other stuff but it's tricky to get enough room to clean things properly. After 25 years I would pull the rear wheel, the final drive and the swing-arm. With the shocks disconnected you get to feel the swing-arm bearings and do a proper re-grease. You can also get the gearbox on the bench for proper cleaning. You can also properly clean the clutch splines. It's only a few hours to go this way and to my mind it's more satisfying. Enjoy.

Thanx Charlie I needed to hear that.

have fun Neil I do mine every 10k on my /5 and do not remove the rear hardware but it is like working on a small car with big hands so next time I will do it Charlies way get to check out all to be sure. Im retired now so next time your make it down this way I can show you some of my favorite roads. Ride Safe
Templetommy

An important tip: Start with the rear wheel on so you can use the brake to hold the driveshaft while undoing the four bolts at the universal joint.

BMW recommends that these bolts be replaced. I think I might have replaced them once but haven't bothered lately.

Airbear wrote: ↑Wed Mar 15, 2017 5:16 pm BMW recommends that these bolts be replaced. I think I might have replaced them once but haven't bothered lately.

I know a bloke who's reused them at least 20 times. I've no reason to think he's bullshitting either.

On my 81 R100RT with a ride off stand, I block up the stand, use the rear wheel to loose the drive shaft bolts, disconnect the brake pedal and shock bolts plus many other things...then I roll the wheel, final drive and shaft to the rear and tie it up before removing the gear box.
PAS "100RT in another life"

If I decide not to remove the wheel, do I need to disconnect the shocks to pull that swing arm back?

HA.... I was worried about how I was going to tighten those drive shaft bolts. I just checked my bikes tool kit, and there is a very nice 12 sided 10 mm/12mm wrench. That's my torque wrench extension right in my tool kit. The 12 mm end goes right on the drive end of an extension with a simple calculation:

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufactur ... ench_1.htm

Can you find your last thread about removing the tranny? We covered a few options for you.

Have you only just discovered your 10/12mm 12 point ring spanner? Ye Gods!

ME 109 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 18, 2017 2:47 am Can you find your last thread about removing the tranny? We covered a few options for you.

Have you only just discovered your 10/12mm 12 point ring spanner? Ye Gods!

Yea sorry, I found the previous thread. Very good thanx! I knew I had two 10/12 spanners in my tool kit, I just hadn't realized that they were 12 point for this reason and application. So this represents a 4.25 in. extension and my torque wrench is 12.5 in mid handle to ratchet head center. So if I want 27 ft/pds:

27x12.5/12.5+4.25= 20.1 ft/pds

I just realized that if I just pull back the trans I wouldn't even have to unbolt the drive shaft! Last time I did this I pulled out the trans. I guess it's all about personal hygiene at this point. Thanx for putting up with me! I do all the work in my head, first.

For the swing arm:

I modified the 27 mm socket on my 6 inch bench grinder, finer stone. Used the side of the stone to rub off the face of the socket so the there is no tapered entry.