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84 R100 Input spline service at glacial speed.

So I've got the brand new bolts finger tight on the drive shaft to trans. I had marked the position that the drive shaft was in relation to the trans, but the marks disappeared I left the bolts clean and dry before installing them. Would it be best to torque the bolts now, or wait till I have the swing arm pins installed?

Neil, that's an easy one. Torquing up the bolts must be left till later. The swingarm, final drive and rear wheel need to be installed so you can use the rear brake to hold the drive shaft while you torque up the bolts.

ps: Glacial speed is right. Hopefully this means you are savouring the experience in the approved manner.

Airbear wrote: ↑Fri May 12, 2017 2:24 am Neil, that's an easy one. Torquing up the bolts must be left till later. The swingarm, final drive and rear wheel need to be installed so you can use the rear brake to hold the drive shaft while you torque up the bolts.

ps: Glacial speed is right. Hopefully this means you are savouring the experience in the approved manner.

I had trouble unbolting those bolts due to (I think) the spring and cam shock absorber on the drive shaft. I wonder if that's going to make it difficult to use the torque wrench? Getting the rubber boot back on looks like a pain! Should I attach the swing arm side of the boot first before torquing.

Yea, I just do a little now and then and do a good job of it, cleaning and lubing everything up as I go. I've got other rides on the road that also need tending. This is a very good problem.

Hmm, I don't have experience with the sprung driveshaft - hopefully somebody will chime in if there is something you should know about that.

I don't use a torque wrench for this job, just the little 12 point ring spanner from the tool kit. I use as much force as I can leaning on it with one hand while one foot is on the brake.

Yes, the rubber boot is a pain. I usually leave it fixed to the swing arm. This means that I'm pulling the rubber over the lip of the output spigot on the gearbox - it just seems easier for me that way and it is easier to see when the rubber is pushed home. I make up a wire hook out of a coat-hanger, an L bend of about 12mm in the end of the length of wire. I shove the inboard (least accessible) side of the rubber into position, hold it there and use the hook to lever the rest into position around the tube. Ok, it's hard to describe - you'll manage. A few gently whispered endearments in German - "mein Liebling", "Schnucki" - that sort of thing - works well.

O, and it's all so much easier with the battery tray removed. Have fun.

Note the two little metal tabs top and bottom on the swing arm that locate the rubber boot. The boot must go under the tabs, as well as the steel band clamp.
I attach the rear first, and then fumblefuck with getting the boot on at the front.

I think it's worth cleaning the oil off the boot, swing arm and tranny. The little bastard likes to slip off during installation when it's oily!

The driveshaft will give a little, the trick is to get the bolt head towards the top and angle the wrench upwards so that when the slack is taken up and you're actually torquing the bolt, the wrench will be horizontal or a little lower.
I tighten to the point of it hurting my palm and never had one break or loosen.
Did you get a torque adaptor for your torque wrench?

Yea that boot is going to be tricky. I can use the tool kit 10/12mm wrench as a torque adapter. I put the 12mm on to a allen socket, do a little math and I came up with 21ft/pds. I'll be fumblefucking for sure. I was going to change the boot as I have a new one, but the old one doesn't show any signs of distress, same with the clutch arm boot. I removed the battery box already. I was going to change the positive cable from the starter, but it looks just fine so I just unbolted and cleaned up contacts with a dielectric greasing. I want to take a trip on this bike, so I'm trying to do it all right. Going to pull the rear wheel and clean/grease the wheel bearings with new seals, then clean and put some of that Honda moly grease on the rear wheel splines. I drained the drive shaft housing, so will re fill it 100CC's. Take the bike for a ride then change all the oil in the engine and drive line. After all this I'll expect a visit from a freckeled blonde milk maid from der fatherland to administer the proper suction.

To remove and tighten the driveshaft bolts, I generally use a 12 point Craftsman combination wrench and lock into it my 11mm combination. You don't have to use as much force. I guess I don't tighten them as much as spec since they aren't stretched enough to make spinning them out by hand difficult but I've never had a problem with one coming out.

So I got back to the bike today. Got the boot attached to the swing arm. Still stuck on tightening the driveshaft bolts. With the brake on, I still have too much travel due to the spring/ramp damper too get a good feeling that I'm torquing them properly. I've set the first setting at 10 ft/pds but things are just moving too much. Rear wheel brake has the wheel locked. I can't imagine that it should matter if the trans is in gear or not. In gear it would just be help by engine compression. With the extension on the torque wrench I only need to get to 20 ft pds. Just doesn't feel right.

I wonder why I never experienced that with my R65?

All I can suggest (and I don't like it), is to put a screwdriver in the U-joint to keep the shaft from rotating. Yuck.

Rob wrote: ↑Mon May 15, 2017 9:27 pm I wonder why I never experienced that with my R65?

All I can suggest (and I don't like it), is to put a screwdriver in the U-joint to keep the shaft from rotating. Yuck.

Not going to happen.