oil pan gasket

[bluesman]

Hello all,
I'm replacing the oil pan gasket on my 79 R100. When I removed the pan the bolts had a red RTV like substance on the end of them. Nothing in the manual says anything about using threadlock or sealer on the bolts. Is this recomended?

Thanks
Bluesman

[Kurt in S.A.]

This is probably something that should be done. Most (if not all) of the pan bolts are through bolts with the threads ending inside the sump area. Oil can wick down the threads and make a mess. Some kind of non-hardening sealant should be used on the bolt threads. I'd use something like Hylomar or Permatex Ultra Gray...not sure RTV is the say to go.

Kurt in S.A.

[Rob]

Do you know about re-torquing the screws after the new gasket has compressed?

[bluesman]

Thank's for your reply. How soon after should I re-torque?

[Rob]

I am not really sure.
Maybe 24 hours?

Guys?

Also, use a palm ratchet, or something equivalent. You don't want to be stripping threads.

[Zombie Master]

In my experience you shouldn't need to seal threads if things are in good condition. IMO you should not put any sealant on the gasket surface. Just grease to hold it in place. You will thank me next time you remove it.

[SteveD]

Duane would say not much more than finger tight on those sump bolts.

[barryh]

Doesn't a new sump gasket have thermally activated adhesive on the upper surface in which case it should be fitted with the upper surface dry.

[ME 109]

iirc, only one bolt is a through hole and I think it's just in front of the oil filter.
That bolt is often given some sealant, but I've never used sealant on any of my sump bolts.
7 foot pounds is the torque setting, iirc.

[Zombie Master]

Doesn't a new sump gasket have thermally activated adhesive on the upper surface in which case it should be fitted with the upper surface dry.

Not familiar with the gaskets that have adhesive built in. But I would put grease on the other side so it will be reusable. I hate scraping gaskets.