84 R100S
So if I ride my bike and park it for a day there is no oil on the shop floor. But if it sits for a few days, some collects in two spots, an inch or two in front of the center stand. I'm pretty sure the leaks are from the push rod tube seals. It's not enough of a problem to make me want to re-seal the top end, as the bike runs very well. Are there any tricks to improve the sealing of these seals without a top end removal?
As my airhead gently weeps
- Zombie Master
- Posts: 8821
- Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
- Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada
As my airhead gently weeps
Any and all disclaimers may apply
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
Tricks? Not really, on your bike.
Firstly tho, wash the area thoroughly and then ride, and look for the first signs of oil.
It could be push rod tube seal, or cylinder base? or sump?
Firstly tho, wash the area thoroughly and then ride, and look for the first signs of oil.
It could be push rod tube seal, or cylinder base? or sump?
Lord of the Bings
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
Maybe try running it at the half way mark b/w min & max?
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.
1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
Victoria, S.E.Oz.
1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
I found a leak there on mine by washing the area well and, when dry, dusting it well with baby powder. After riding it, there was a track to where the oil was coming from. In my case it was both pushrod seals on the left side. I waited for winter and changed all 4 seals.
I've spent most of my money on women, motorcycles, and beer.
The rest of it I just wasted.
The rest of it I just wasted.
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
Several thoughts....
• If you use synthetic oils, then don't ! Not only are there very wide differences between brands and what actually constitutes a "synthetic oil", but these oils typically migrate to places where mineral oil can't get... like past perfectly good oil seals.
• I'm with Dougie... wash it first. The push rod tube seals do get hard with age and start to leak, but they also get too much bad press, and therefore undue attention. Other known culprits are the oil pressure switch and the plate covering the oil pump behind the clutch.
• At 35+ years old, you have to expect age hardening of ALL the neoprene oil seals, o-rings, and gaskets. When doing any repair task, you also have to ask yourself "what other sealing points are exposed while I have the XYZ apart ?" E.g. a clutch job is an excellent time to replace several oil seals and the oil pump o-ring. Therefore, ending leaks is a slow, progressive effort, not a focused task.
• If you use synthetic oils, then don't ! Not only are there very wide differences between brands and what actually constitutes a "synthetic oil", but these oils typically migrate to places where mineral oil can't get... like past perfectly good oil seals.
• I'm with Dougie... wash it first. The push rod tube seals do get hard with age and start to leak, but they also get too much bad press, and therefore undue attention. Other known culprits are the oil pressure switch and the plate covering the oil pump behind the clutch.
• At 35+ years old, you have to expect age hardening of ALL the neoprene oil seals, o-rings, and gaskets. When doing any repair task, you also have to ask yourself "what other sealing points are exposed while I have the XYZ apart ?" E.g. a clutch job is an excellent time to replace several oil seals and the oil pump o-ring. Therefore, ending leaks is a slow, progressive effort, not a focused task.
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !
- Zombie Master
- Posts: 8821
- Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
- Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
I think the Mobil 1 15w50 is a superior product. I also ran it for 7 years in my R60/2 without a problem. I'm just wondering if there is a way to externally manipulate the push rod seals to improve their sealing. Bike is running too good to disturb the top end. I haven't had to adjust tappets in the last 4 inspections. I don't want to mess with a good thing.
Any and all disclaimers may apply
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
on the /6's the ring on the push rod tube is movable, I have a tool to tighten it against the seal, some times it will stop the leak until you get time to change the seal. If the rubber is rock hard you gonna have to change the seal.
- Zombie Master
- Posts: 8821
- Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
- Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
Can you tell me anything about this tool? Is it a BMW OEM tool?
Any and all disclaimers may apply
- Airbear
- Posts: 2887
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:02 am
- Location: Oz, lower right hand side, in a bit, just over the lumpy part.
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
It looks something like this, I believe ...
... but this one will only work on a virtual BMW. It's a 3D model.
... but this one will only work on a virtual BMW. It's a 3D model.
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
Re: As my airhead gently weeps
I don't think that tool will work on the airheads with the collar that's stuck, ie post 1980.
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.
1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
Victoria, S.E.Oz.
1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.