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Hi, I just put a down payment on a mint 1994 K75. It has 650 miles on it and has been in heated storage for the last 15 years. I will be bringing it home this week. I've read lots of good things about these bikes, but have only owned R bikes for the last 30 years or so. The only cosmetic issue is the paint on the front fender appears to be flaking off. Any suggestions? I am thinking of taking it to a body shop and having it sprayed.

where did you find a bike with 650miles on it? Post pictures please., I've had my 1991 K75 standard for 14 years still love it, K75's play well with airheads

Bike was in the Hamptons, inside someones house. I guess the guy had a bunch of toys he seldom used. I still need to get it running though.

Gibson wrote: ↑Mon Mar 19, 2018 9:31 am The only cosmetic issue is the paint on the front fender appears to be flaking off. Any suggestions? I am thinking of taking it to a body shop and having it sprayed.

• Get it running first. This could take longer and cost more than you anticipate. Num-skulls like this typically leave the tank full of fuel...which has now evaporated leaving lots of residue blocking all fuel routes.

• Don't forget that you'll need new tires to ride on. You surely don't want to trust 25 year old tires.

• Grease in all locations has probably oxidized. Places like the swing arm bearings are easy to renew. Places like the head post bearings and wheel bearings are not so easy.

• Brake fluid will need a complete flush. Then once it's running and on the road, you'll want to follow up with 2 more after the 1000 mile and 2000 mile mark.

Congrats !

Thanks much! I brought it home last night before we have some weather is coming this way. Heavy bike!! I am very excited. Bike has ABS. I was surprised that the brakes work (they usually don't after long storage) My plan is complete fuel system clean out, brake fluid and coolant change, tranny, rear oil change and of coarse a new battery before I do anything else. My biggest problem right now is missing keys. I need the keys before I can even work on it. fortunately he did have the title.

In my experience on Airheads, the keys look fairly complex and formidable. In reality though, if you have a collection of 5 or 6 keys you can generally jiggle, shake, twist and turn... and one of them will operate the locks.

Start with the seat, becasue it uses a sub-set of the ignition switch internals. Once the seat is open, remove the lock becasue you will continue to need to get under the seat as repairs progress.

Then work on the ignition. If you struggle to get the switch ON, leave the key in that position. Do your ON/OFF control by disconnecting the battery ground at the battery until you can find a workable ignition switch replacement.

When you are ready for a new switch I greatly prefer the products and service from Rick James... http://motoelekt.com/ignition.htm

ABS is not your friend and is not fun to work on... even when they work correctly. I'm NOT saying take it off, I'm saying prepare yourself for some days of extreme exasperation. For the 1 or 2 times a year they actually activate, they usually consume an inordinate amount of tinkering, wrench throwing, and liberal use of foul language.

One last thing.... in the shop where I work, we crank a lot of bikes that have been sitting for decades. Do not be too hasty to judge the condition of the engine. It may smoke and sputter on first cranking. Reserve judgement until you can get it out on the expressway for a 15 min run at mid-RPM range. The heat and pressure of combustion will re-seat the rings and valves and allow miracles to happen.

► Here's a fun example of long term storage....
• 1913 Indian 1000cc V-twin being cranked for the first time in 90 years !

• And the smokey aftermath !

Hope this helps.

Very Cool, Thanks! I was going to pick the lock on the gas cap tonight and bring it to a locksmith to make a key.

That may not work the way you think. The gas cap and the seat use something like 3 tumblers, whereas the ignition switch and fork lock use 5 or 6.

However, if you have a key collection that works in your favor. If only 1 out of 10 keys will work in the ignition, then 1 out of 4 will work in the gas cap and seat locks. That's what I meant by the seat lock being a sub-set of the ignition.

So getting a key made for the gas cap will most likely NOT work the ignition. Whereas a key made for the ignition WILL work in the gas cap and seat.

I've disassembled several BMW ignition switches. They are bizarre. Unlike most vehicle locks, the electrical part has to be disassembled completely before the locking section comes out. And I believe the key blanks are only available from BMW at $15 a pop. PLUS your key maker has to be able to cut steel keys. Most keys now are brass and the hardware store variety key duplication guy will refuse to cut steel blanks becasue they dull his cutter. I finally had to train myself to cut the BMW blanks by hand. What a RPIA !!

Hope this helps.

Thanks Wobbly, that is good to know. I guess the best thing for me to do is go to a dealer and order the key for my serial #. I was able to take apart seat lock, but if that will not suffice, there is no sense in me wasting my money on a locksmith for that if it will not work on the ignition. Last night I got the battery out and removed the spark plugs. Put a few drops of oil in the cylinders and rotated the engine with bike in 5th gear. It is very hard to turn over this way. Bike was last registered in 1999.

A few drops of oil won't cut it. when I got on old truck and the motor would turn over completely, I put a couple of shots of Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder. I think more is better as you really want to wet the cylinders and try to get the oil to soak past the rings.
Let it soak in for a couple of days. Then work it back and forth in small increments till it starts to spin freely.