I haven't had any dealings with the Enduralast system but looking at the images and wiring diagrams on their site, it appears to be simply an upgraded version of the original Bosche setup.
From first principles... if the lamp is on that's a pretty good indicator that the alternator is not charging. If you've checked the voltage at the battery with the engine running at various revs and it remains steady (probably falling slowly). Then that is a very clear indication that the alternator isn't charging.
The issue could be in a number of places but the first thing to do, since this is a new installation, is to check all of the wiring and connections. Check them off one at a time against the installation instructions It's quite easy to check things off in your mind as being done right, then at a later stage, to realise it wasn't right at all... DAMHIK! Also check the integrity of all of the wires involved.
OK so now you're very happy that everything is connected right so you need to start looking at specific components. The order you check will depend on you but this is the way I would go...
1) Loop out the regulator... disconnect the wires fron the rgulator and connect the blue wire (D+) to the black wire (Df). Start the bike and increase revs... If the lamp goes out and the voltage shoots up to around 16 volts or more, you have a dead regulator. A word of warning... don't ride the bike like this or run it for any length of time... you'll fry the battery.
2) Diode Board test... You've pretty much ruled out the diode board with your substitution but it's still a good idea to check it out. There is a testing prodcdure here
https://robfrankham.com/diode-board-test. This is based round the stock diode board but I'm pretty sure it's applicable to the Enduralast unit as well apart from the fact that the physical connections will probably look different. Should be simple to identify them from the documentation.
3) Brushes... Are the brushes making good contact with the slip rings? Are they connected correctly. The left brush connector should go direct to ground through the alternator cover, the right one should be insulated from ground and connect only to the regulator (Df).
4) Rotor.... I don't know the specifed resistance for the Enduralast rotor (measured with a multimeter between the two slip rings(with the brushes not making contact)) but it definitely should not be zero and I would be very surprised if it was as high as 10 ohms. Any more than that and the rotor is suspect
5) Stator... Again I don't have the resistance spec for the coils on the rotor but the resistance between any two of the main output terminals (U. V and W) will be somewhere less than 1 ohm (stock is 0.62 ohms) and it definitely shouldn't be zero. There should be no continuity between any of the terminals and ground and there should also be a resistance reading between each of the three main terminals and the 'Y' terminal.
To recap. With the charge light shining constantly, your charge circuit is not producing any electricity at all. If it is fitted and wired correctly and all of the wires are in tact, then there's a fault with one of the components. Don't assume that, because a component is new, it's going to be good. With anything, especially anything electrical, failure is most common during the first few hours of operation. Check each item and you will find the problem.
Rob
