Boxerworks.com

1984 R100S

I've had a wet underbelly for some time. If I go out and park for a few hours, you would not see any oil on the ground. But after weeks of sitting, there would be two small oil spots on the floor under the rear edge corners of the sump. My engine holds tappet clearance well between checks, and runs well, so I didn't really want to pull the cylinders off just for some weeping oil.

GSPD can certainly come off a bit crusty at times, but he gave me a bit of advice:

He suggested after a clean up, that I stick a needle nose pliers into the seals "like forking a hot dog" and move them around a bit, then shove them back into the crankcase. I had a well known seal conditioner usually used internally, to stop engine leaks in my garage. I use it for improving the condition of rubber parts. I don't know if that helped at all, but I brushed it on the seals a few times before pushing the cleaned seals into the crankcase. I've been riding for months now, and can attest that I have a oil tight machine, after a decade with an oily bottom.

Thanx GSPD! And after a good test, I'd though I'd pass this on. An easy fix you can add to your library of tricks.

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 5:22 am GSPD can certainly come off a bit crusty at times........

I resemble that remark!

Just for the record, and I've seen many people do this, it's not a good idea to hammer the actual metal pushrod tubes further into the engine to compress the rubber more than originally was intended, even though some dufus designed a tool specifically for this purpose. It might temporarily quell a leak by compressing distorting the rubber seal, but makes it a PITA to install new seals later on after you realize that distorting them didn't work for long. I don't care what 'the experts' say on ADVrider etc, the (my? ) method ZM described works, even with kinda hardened seals, as long as they aren't badly cracked.

Is there a way to get to the pushrods without taking the heads off on an '80 r100?

You can just remove the four long head nuts and rockers, slide the whole shootin' match back to be able to get at the seals...don't pull it back enough to clear the piston rings...probably would start with the engine at TDC. To me this method could be fraught with issues. You need to scrupulously clean both mating surfaces (cylinder and engine), apply a small amount of sealant, while getting none in the holes at the top head bolts that allow engine oil to come out, and then carefully reseat everything. Seems like there's something there that will come back to bite you. IMO.

Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A. wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 2:13 pm You can just remove the four long head nuts and rockers, slide the whole shootin' match back to be able to get at the seals...don't pull it back enough to clear the piston rings...probably would start with the engine at TDC. To me this method could be fraught with issues. You need to scrupulously clean both mating surfaces (cylinder and engine), apply a small amount of sealant, while getting none in the holes at the top head bolts that allow engine oil to come out, and then carefully reseat everything. Seems like there's something there that will come back to bite you. IMO.

Kurt in S.A.

Yeah, after watching a couple of videos about doing a pushrod seal replacement, it doesn't seem like a good idea to do it alone. it makes more sense to instead do a full seal/o-ring/gasket replacement for the entire block/cylinder/head assy.

gspd wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 8:22 am it's not a good idea to hammer the actual metal pushrod tubes further into the engine to compress the rubber more than originally was intended, even though some dufus designed a tool specifically for this purpose.

AMOF the tool was designed to set the rings on the tubes of the early engines. On these models, the rings were not brazed to the tube and needed to be set whenever the cylinder was removed. The tool was not intended to be used on the later type tubes with the brazed on rings... although, it can be done and, as you say, can effect a temporary fix.

Rob

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 1:41 pm Is there a way to get to the pushrods without taking the heads off on an '80 r100?

Yes

1) set the engine to TDC on the power stroke for the cylinder you want to work on
2) remove the rocker cover

3) loosen all six head nuts in a criss-cross pattern but leave the top and bottom nuts hand tight

4) remove all of the other four nuts and draw both rocker assemblies off the studs. Note. it's a good idea to remove the assemblies carefully and place them aside without diemantling them (unless you need to work on them of course). That way you can just slip them back into place when you've finished whatever you want to do to the pushrods.

5) The pushrods can be simply pulled out from the tubes.

6) When you reassemble,make sure the crank hasn't moved then torque the head nuts to spec in the approved criss-cross pattern.

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 7:26 pm

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 1:41 pm Is there a way to get to the pushrods without taking the heads off on an '80 r100?

Yes

1) set the engine to TDC on the power stroke for the cylinder you want to work on
2) remove the rocker cover

3) loosen all six head nuts in a criss-cross pattern but leave the top and bottom nuts hand tight

4) remove all of the other four nuts and draw both rocker assemblies off the studs. Note. it's a good idea to remove the assemblies carefully and place them aside without diemantling them (unless you need to work on them of course). That way you can just slip them back into place when you've finished whatever you want to do to the pushrods.

5) The pushrods can be simply pulled out from the tubes.

6) When you reassemble,make sure the crank hasn't moved then torque the head nuts to spec in the approved criss-cross pattern.

Rob

I assumed kmisterk was inquiring on how to get to the pushrod seals, not the actual pushrods.

I simply answered the question asked...

Rob

gspd wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 7:58 pm

I assumed kmisterk was inquiring on how to get to the pushrod seals, not the actual pushrods.

I was, but it's good to note that there's a way to get to the pushrods, too. Technically, the "seals" weren't mentioned in my question

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 7:26 pm

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 1:41 pm Is there a way to get to the pushrods without taking the heads off on an '80 r100?

Yes

1) set the engine to TDC on the power stroke for the cylinder you want to work on
2) remove the rocker cover

3) loosen all six head nuts in a criss-cross pattern but leave the top and bottom nuts hand tight

4) remove all of the other four nuts and draw both rocker assemblies off the studs. Note. it's a good idea to remove the assemblies carefully and place them aside without diemantling them (unless you need to work on them of course). That way you can just slip them back into place when you've finished whatever you want to do to the pushrods.

5) The pushrods can be simply pulled out from the tubes.

6) When you reassemble,make sure the crank hasn't moved then torque the head nuts to spec in the approved criss-cross pattern.

Rob

Thank you! This is decent. I appreciate the help