Boxerworks.com

Hopefully an easy one.

I'm removing the rivets that hold on the wheel cup.

I've drilled the inner heads off, used "Oaks" directions, in red on snowbum's site.

Seem to have everything removed but the rivets aren't just tapping out.

Do they sometimes "weld" them selves in or anything? How much persuation should it take?

If it's more than a moderate amount, is that saying I don't have the whole head off?

Thanks for any tips or insight.

pkboxer wrote:Hopefully an easy one.

I'm removing the rivets that hold on the wheel cup.

I've drilled the inner heads off, used "Oaks" directions, in red on snowbum's site.

Seem to have everything removed but the rivets aren't just tapping out.

Do they sometimes "weld" them selves in or anything? How much persuation should it take?

If it's more than a moderate amount, is that saying I don't have the whole head off?

Thanks for any tips or insight.

When those rivets are bucked, they expand in the hole, so it could take a fair amount of persuasion to pop 'em out. As far as knowing whether or not you've removed the entire head . . . it should be pretty easy to see the entire edge of the hole if the whole rivet head is removed.

I did this on a Snowflake Mag wheel

drill the hole into the cup stop just before the casting if the cup removes and the pin won't soak with liguid wrench or other same type of stuff wait a little and tap with a pointed pin or centerpunch re-soak if they don't move

tap and re-soak intil they do......

Use a 6mm bolt or 1/4 with self locking nuts and pick one that almost starts threading just below the cup!!!!!!

this Zipper fix is the best fix and can keep the wheel useful for a lot longer and cheaper than any fix today.

G’day PK. Scot and Lyman are correct. They do need some force, preferably with some penetrating lube. There are a lot of ways of fitting the cup; I chose 1/4” cap-head screws with stainless washers and Nylok nuts. First I had to shape one ‘shoulder’ of the nuts to fit the flange-to-cup radius –



Then I had to shape the washers to fit in between the webs in the hub …



… which I did by clamping them like this –



All shaping was done with an inverted belt-sander with 80 grit belt. The cap screws should be chosen to give the right length of unthreaded portion (I think 12mm or 1/2” is about right). I had to cut down 1” screws to the final length (memory fails me on what that was). They should not protrude more than about 1mm from the nuts or they will hit alloy inside the hub on assembly.

Have fun.

Thanks all. I've read up a bit on this, including the snowbum.

A lot of writing on how to drill into the rivets and reattach the wheel cup, but makes removing the rivets sound easier than it seems it is.

I think it says to "tap them out". And doesn't mention them sticking in or using any penetrating fluid.

Thanks

pkboxer wrote:Thanks all. I've read up a bit on this, including the snowbum.

A lot of writing on how to drill into the rivets and reattach the wheel cup, but makes removing the rivets sound easier than it seems it is.

I think it says to "tap them out". And doesn't mention them sticking in or using any penetrating fluid.

Thanks

My rivets came out all by themselves when shifting down to 3rd on the Alaska way Viaduct at 60mph.
I'm not a fan of the rivets. Bolts are better.

Matt, were you thinking at the time. "Man am I lucky to not have to struggle removing those rivets!"

I envy you. You've got the luck.

I found that once the inside tip of the rivet was drilled off I could use a punch about the same diameter to drive (tap) the rivets out. I didn't bother to heat them but it might help if they are as recalcitrant as you indicate.

Like Airbear, I also radiused a nut for the inside edge of the spline cup but used 6mm stainless allen heads (after all, it's a metric bike ). I tried to thread the spline cup - hah! - good luck on that! Very hard!!!

Teo

Got the rivets off. I had to drill pretty much all the rivet out of the wheel cup to do it.

The rivets must expand inside of the wheel cup holes when they are done since after this, they tapped out of the wheel itself not easily, but with the amount of "tapping" that I expected.

Now I'm working on the bolts for reassembly.

I blindly followed snowbums recomendation for airplain bolts but they don't work. (ordered the ones he names on the site).

They are 1.5" long, but have 3/4" of unthreaded length.

And, I should have realized this earlier. You can't use normal bolts, they won't turn. And you can't turn the nut side either.

You need allen bolts, or possibly 12 sided bolts.

Off to the store again!

Yep I used a stainless allen head bolt but since I used this on a Snowflake I didn't need any grind or any other work excet to cut the extra threads off and I used wave and self lock nuts