Boxerworks.com

It’s time to replace the timing chain. I know many make do with the tools that they have. However, I’m of the belief that if you are going to save money on labor, then it’s best to purchase the appropriate tools. Cycleworks makes some engine multi tools (Stage I, II and II). Follow the link for descriptions and photos https://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?ma ... Path=29_51

I doubt I’ll ever need the Stage III tool set, but I debating between the Stage I and II (leaning toward the Stage II). Do these tools seem like they’re worth their cost for someone who has not done this yet? It seems like the job would go better and quicker with the tools.

Just replacing your timing chain is relatively easy, the only 'special tool' you need is some type of hardened extended bolt to pop off the alternator rotor. The rest is relatively easy.

The fun starts if you determine the crank sprocket is worn. Then you'll need the Stage1 (or similar) kit to pull off the old crank sprocket and install a new one. Relatively uncomplicated.

Things get more complicated and timely when you also need to replace the cam sprocket.
The camshaft has to come out and you'll need a press to replace the sprocket.
With enough experience and finesse, contrary to common belief and practice, the camshaft can be removed and re-installed without removing the oil pump cover, which saves you from having to remove the transmission and flywheel.

3 tips for newbies......
1- Some duplex chains don't have a master link. Just protect everything with rags and cut the old chain off with an angle grinder or large bolt cutters.
2 - Block all the engine holes you see with kleenex when fiddling with master links and clips cuz you're gonna drop one or the other at least once and you don't want anything falling in the engine.
3 - Don't forget the two top gasket washers behind the timing cover when re-assembling.

All good advice... and, yes, it is possible to pull the camshaft and refit it without removing the oil filter cover provided you have the later camshaft/inner oil pump rotor combination which uses a square section on the camshaft to engage with the rotor. It doesn't work with the earlier camshaft/rotor which uses a woodruff key. I've even done it without removing the cylinders provided you make all of the valves are fully closed so that the tappets don't slide down into the camshaft space.

You do have to be careful, though, when removing/refitting the camshaft. If the oil pump rotors move so that the hole in the inner rotor no longer aligns with the journal in the crankcase, you're screwed and the only way forward is to remove the gearbox, the clutch and the oil pump cover.

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 9:32 pm All good advice... and, yes, it is possible to pull the camshaft and refit it without removing the oil filter cover provided you have the later camshaft/inner oil pump rotor combination which uses a square section on the camshaft to engage with the rotor. It doesn't work with the earlier camshaft/rotor which uses a woodruff key.

i've actually done it with both types. Experience and finesse are 'de rigueur'.
The later 'D' type cams are relatively easy. The earlier woodruff key ones need more skill (and luck?).
The trick is to note the position of the cam when you remove it and re-install it in exactly the same position.
If the oil pump rotor moves, you're fucked, but it usually doesn't.

First of all, the bike’s a 1988 R100 RT with a little under 105,000 miles (169,000 km).

gspd wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 9:18 pm The fun starts if you determine the crank sprocket is worn. Then you'll need the Stage1 (or similar) kit to pull off the old crank sprocket and install a new one. Relatively uncomplicated.

I have a new crank sprocket. I think I was told it’s best to replace at the same time, since it wears quicker than the cam sprocket-but it’s been a while and I don’t necessarily trust my memory. So, my memory could be completely wrong here.

gspd wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 9:18 pm Things get more complicated and timely when you also need to replace the cam sprocket.
The camshaft has to come out and you'll need a press to replace the sprocket.
With enough experience and finesse, contrary to common belief and practice, the camshaft can be removed and re-installed without removing the oil pump cover, which saves you from having to remove the transmission and flywheel.

Now that’s getting into territory beyond my capabilities (no press to replace the sprocket)

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 9:32 pm You do have to be careful, though, when removing/refitting the camshaft. If the oil pump rotors move so that the hole in the inner rotor no longer aligns with the journal in the crankcase, you're screwed and the only way forward is to remove the gearbox, the clutch and the oil pump cover.

Well if that did happen, I guess I’d be tearing things apart to replace the rear main seal as well, since it’s leaking a little. So, it’s timing chain before rear main.

Thanks for your responses. How easy is it to remove the timing case cover without any special tools?

Jeff in W.C. wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 10:12 pm First of all, the bike’s a 1988 R100 RT with a little under 105,000 miles (169,000 km).

OK, so simplex chain and D type cam, that makes it easier. Cam sprocket is probably still very good.

Jeff in W.C. wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 10:12 pm I have a new crank sprocket. I think I was told it’s best to replace at the same time, since it wears quicker than the cam sprocket-but it’s been a while and I don’t necessarily trust my memory. So, my memory could be completely wrong here.

Your memory is working OK

Jeff in W.C. wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 10:12 pm Now that’s getting into territory beyond my capabilities (no press to replace the sprocket)

Once the cam is out any car or bike shop with a press can easily change the sprocket for you.
It's an easy 10 or 15 minute job.

Jeff in W.C. wrote: ↑Tue Aug 30, 2022 10:12 pm How easy is it to remove the timing case cover without any special tools?

Real easy once the starter cover is off. Should tap right off with a plastic mallet.