Engine guards for R1100gs.
Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2023 11:19 pm
My covid lockdown project was a 94 R1100gs.
It's had a bit done to it. The white tank was plastic and had severely bubbling paint (common) and and large spot of paint damage from the leaky master cylinder. The mc was sorted and the tank replaced with a metal one from a R1150gs.
Other stuff included a new HES, new later model fuel injectors, decat the hugely heavy exhaust-now lighter pipe and muffler, added an O2 sensor, added fuel disconnects along with new fuel lines, fuel pump etc. Fixed a persistent leak which turned out to be a loose bolt from an isolated spot.
I wanted to add bigger engine guards and a sump guard. It came with the sump guard in a box and I sourced an oem set of engine guards that match the sump gear.
I couldn't find any web based guidance on how to fit this gear. It's easy enough once you know how, but not entirely intuitive otherwise.
Here's my info:
Attaching oem R1100gs crash bars and sump guard.
Three stages.
1.The sump guard gear attaches first.
2.The lower crash bars attach via the sump guard.
3.The upper bars are attached to the frame downtube.
The special single longer metal spacer M8X16 / 26MM $US24.98 each has a bigger thread and goes into the front left threaded hole on the engine casing.
Each corner of the sump guard has a buffer (M6X15 / 25X10MM $US16 each!!! available cheaper via google) I only had 3, built a 4th.
Attach the inner sump guard using one buffer into the spacer. This helps hold the guard up and frees your hand. Then add the other 3 buffer fasteners to each corner. Snug them up into their threaded holes in the engine casing. The inner guard is now on, the 4 buffers showing downwards, waiting for the lower guard.
Strap the bars in a hanging position that allows you to move the lower attachment points to the buffers. Otherwise it tends to fall outwards as you're holding it and simultaneously applying the lower fasteners (10mm nut & washer)
Then position the outer/lowest sump guard upwards onto the 4 buffers. I used a lump of wood to keep it from falling and in position as gravity rules until you add the first washer & nut to a lower crash bar mount.
With the guard hanging loosely, move the lower attachment points onto the buffers, adding the washer and nut to each buffer on that side. Leave them a little loose. You’ll need to be able to move the bar a little to elevate it to the main upper bolt.
The next step is to fasten the upper attachment point. It shares the M8X30-8.8 bolt on the frame that the headlight fairing bracket uses. You’ll need to align the bolt via two holes into the frame thread. Raising the upper crash bar required a lever to elevate it to enable the bolt to line up and thread in straight and undamaged.
I used a hammer handle, wedged under the bar to lift it. Easy.
Repeat at the other side. Tighten all 4 10mm nuts under the sump guard, Ensure the upper mount is also tight.
The last task is to fit the cross bar. I don't have one, so need to find one or make one. Hole to hole is 62cm.
I hope that helps someone, sometime. Cheers.
- right..jpg (122.89 KiB) Viewed 5437 times
Other stuff included a new HES, new later model fuel injectors, decat the hugely heavy exhaust-now lighter pipe and muffler, added an O2 sensor, added fuel disconnects along with new fuel lines, fuel pump etc. Fixed a persistent leak which turned out to be a loose bolt from an isolated spot.
- 2..jpg (755.69 KiB) Viewed 5437 times
I couldn't find any web based guidance on how to fit this gear. It's easy enough once you know how, but not entirely intuitive otherwise.
Here's my info:
Attaching oem R1100gs crash bars and sump guard.
Three stages.
1.The sump guard gear attaches first.
2.The lower crash bars attach via the sump guard.
3.The upper bars are attached to the frame downtube.
The special single longer metal spacer M8X16 / 26MM $US24.98 each has a bigger thread and goes into the front left threaded hole on the engine casing.
Each corner of the sump guard has a buffer (M6X15 / 25X10MM $US16 each!!! available cheaper via google) I only had 3, built a 4th.
Attach the inner sump guard using one buffer into the spacer. This helps hold the guard up and frees your hand. Then add the other 3 buffer fasteners to each corner. Snug them up into their threaded holes in the engine casing. The inner guard is now on, the 4 buffers showing downwards, waiting for the lower guard.
Strap the bars in a hanging position that allows you to move the lower attachment points to the buffers. Otherwise it tends to fall outwards as you're holding it and simultaneously applying the lower fasteners (10mm nut & washer)
Then position the outer/lowest sump guard upwards onto the 4 buffers. I used a lump of wood to keep it from falling and in position as gravity rules until you add the first washer & nut to a lower crash bar mount.
With the guard hanging loosely, move the lower attachment points onto the buffers, adding the washer and nut to each buffer on that side. Leave them a little loose. You’ll need to be able to move the bar a little to elevate it to the main upper bolt.
The next step is to fasten the upper attachment point. It shares the M8X30-8.8 bolt on the frame that the headlight fairing bracket uses. You’ll need to align the bolt via two holes into the frame thread. Raising the upper crash bar required a lever to elevate it to enable the bolt to line up and thread in straight and undamaged.
I used a hammer handle, wedged under the bar to lift it. Easy.
Repeat at the other side. Tighten all 4 10mm nuts under the sump guard, Ensure the upper mount is also tight.
The last task is to fit the cross bar. I don't have one, so need to find one or make one. Hole to hole is 62cm.
- IMG_3918.jpg (77.13 KiB) Viewed 5437 times