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Has anyone had any luck at removing the lower shockie mounting bolt from the final drive housing??? The thread on my had stripped itself a wee bit. I have drilled through the nut and bolt and split pinned it for the time being.

I assume this bolt will unscrew from the final drive housing???

I've never done it, so I can't say, but I would heat the aluminum to make it easier to remove.

Tim Shepherd wrote:I've never done it, so I can't say. Is it just the drawing, or does that stud look like it's connected to the brake shoe mounting thingy?

Not mounted to the brake shoe thingy. MAx's BMW Fiche shows this bolt as a separate part number. So you must be able to unscrew it? Wondering if heat would need to be applied to the casing to get the bolt to unscrew?

(edited for correct final drive)

{edit} Thats the one. Part # 3.

Yes - twin-shock.

Here are the pictures I was looking for. This one looks like that twin-u-joint GS bike (can'tthinkofthenamerightnow...)

http://2-ventiler.de/vbgallery/v/meinmo ... ?g2_page=5

Half-way down. Mid tour repair!

justoneoftheguys wrote:Yes - twin-shock.

Here are the pictures I was looking for. This one looks like that twin-u-joint GS bike (can'tthinkofthenamerightnow...)

http://2-ventiler.de/vbgallery/v/meinmo ... ?g2_page=5

Half-way down. Mid tour repair!

Thats a broken casing as well in those photos. Poor guy.

It may be Loc-tited in at the factory. Heat may be necessary.

Can you double-nut it to give you something to grab onto?

I would start with a heat gun on high before going to flame.

justoneoftheguys wrote:It may be Loc-tited in at the factory. Heat may be necessary.

Can you double-nut it to give you something to grab onto?

I would start with a heat gun on high before going to flame.

I could even use the stud extractor set and drill a hole into the bolt first.

Knowing my luck if I use a flame I would melt the diff casing and have a pool of metal on the floor.

FUTURE wrote: Knowing my luck if I use a flame I would melt the diff casing and have a pool of metal on the floor.

It does happen a bit suddenly with aluminum...

If you fail with the heat gun, the safest next move would be to remove all seals and heat it up to 500 degrees F in an oven (the temp red Loctite needs for disassembly). An oven would also keep from localized heat creating more warping issues.