Boxerworks.com

I got the 1983 bike I was working on running and have just test ridden it. It has lots of power and shifts fine. There are a few things that I'd like to get right that aren't there yet.

1. The front brake feels like it works correctly but the lever is a little too close to the bar when the brakes engage. It doesn't feel mushy but I'm thinking I may just need to go through the bleed process again. It is the dual Brembo setup. Am I on the right track?

2. It is leaking at the front of the transmission boot. I'm pretty sure I have the boot on properly but of course I will check it. Is the leaking indication of the oil leaking out of the transmission into the drive shaft?

3. Even with the transmission in neutral, I have to hold in the clutch lever to engage the starter. Is that just two wires reversed? Also, the neutral light does not work. The bulb tested good. As I recall, there is power if I use my multimeter on the two terminals of the neutral switch.

I tried to take pictures to show you all the bike but they didn't make it onto the memory card. I know the card I used is not the one that is "formatted" for the camera but I thought it would work. I'll try again soon.

If I can fit it into Monday, I'm going to take it to the DMV and see if they will register it without having to go through the tedious process of a "special construction" type registration. If it is the special construction type, I have to show receipts for everything on the bike.

Chuey

With 1983 dual Brembos, I am assuming it is a handlebar mounted master cylinder. Is the master a correct match for the 1983 Brembos? I believe it was a 15mm piston on RS/RT bikes.

Driveshaft oil goes forward under deceleration/braking. Hopefully that is what is leaking out the boot rather than transmission oil .

I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me so this is mostly a guess. The neutrel switch should ground the neutrel light (through the harness?). Put a jumper across the terminals of the switch and see if you get a light. If you do the bike should start without the clutch, and your problem lies in the switch or between the switch and ground.

If still no light try grounding the wire that goes from the switch to the cluster and see if you get a light. If not make sure there is power to one side of the light socket. Did you have a N light earlier when you had no charge light? They should be powered from the same source.

Garnet, holidaying in the Napa Valley.

Garnet wrote:Garnet, holidaying in the Napa Valley.

Garnet, I had no idea you were/are so close. Enjoy the Napa Valley and do head west to the coast for some great rides.

Garnet wrote:I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me so this is mostly a guess. The neutrel switch should ground the neutrel light (through the harness?). Put a jumper across the terminals of the switch and see if you get a light. If you do the bike should start without the clutch, and your problem lies in the switch or between the switch and ground.

If still no light try grounding the wire that goes from the switch to the cluster and see if you get a light. If not make sure there is power to one side of the light socket. Did you have a N light earlier when you had no charge light? They should be powered from the same source.

The neutral light did not work before either. Duane had written something which prompted me to take my multimeter down there to the nether regions of the transmission but I'm still in the dark about what I'm trying to learn from that. I will try what you said, Garnet.

I would guess that you have been doing some wine tasting? I found it interesting that more expensive reds do not usually appeal to me more than some of the cheaper ones.

Chuey

If the tranny boot leaks you have a pin hole or something isn't clamped up right. It makes no difference if the tranny is leaking or not, the boot shouldn't. Usually it is just drive shaft oil. I used to have issues when I would drive down hill for long distances. Before I fixed the boot I was able to temperarily stop the leak by flipping it upside down.

On the neutral switch, make sure it's the right one. Earlier switches work in reverse of newer switches. I made the mistake on my firend's R90. One type works with a ground the other works with power.

Chuey, does the charge light work now? If so, how ever you got it to work will probably fix the neutrel light.

And yes expensive reds (and whites too) are lost on me, although we havn't done any tasting yet. Maybe tomorrow.

Jeff, we where pretty close to Walnut Creek this afternoon, but we are driving rather than ridding.

I got the charge light to work by putting in one of those solid state or is that electronic, voltage regulators. Anyway, it's one of those new fangled ones.........and it worked.

Chuey

mattcfish wrote:If the tranny boot leaks you have a pin hole or something isn't clamped up right. It makes no difference if the tranny is leaking or not, the boot shouldn't. Usually it is just drive shaft oil. I used to have issues when I would drive down hill for long distances. Before I fixed the boot I was able to temperarily stop the leak by flipping it upside down.

On the neutral switch, make sure it's the right one. Earlier switches work in reverse of newer switches. I made the mistake on my firend's R90. One type works with a ground the other works with power.

How would I tell one type of neutral switch from the opposite? I'm wondering if that would help me with the clutch switch? Or are there two types of those as well?

Chuey

I think that the earlier switch only has one wire?