Boxerworks.com

Cycleworks sells front end tools for R/R of the timing case cover, timing chain sprocket, crank nose bearing and front main bearing carrier. It also presses all of these pieces back on; so you can keep your hammer in the toolbox. It’s a bit pricey ($132), but I’m wondering if it might make life a whole lot easier for the person doing it for the first time. Keep in mind I would have purchase some tools anyway (e.g. sprocket puller). While many people seem to have much luck with heating the sprocket and hammering it on, I’ve also heard stories of first timers not getting the crank sprocket on properly the first time.


See more here.
http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?mai ... 751fe209df

If you heat the sprocket right, there's no need (or excuse) to hammer it on. Only a tap to seat it.
Pressing things on is surely a bit heavy when they can be heated and slid into place?
My main concern would be the quality of the sprocket puller, getting the temps right, and working quickly to avoid freezing the sprocket partially on the shaft.
A puller was the only special I needed, (and like a cheapskate, I borrowed that).

Sunbeem.

+1
What Sunbeem said.

Sunbeem wrote:If you heat the sprocket right, there's no need (or excuse) to hammer it on. Only a tap to seat it.
Pressing things on is surely a bit heavy when they can be heated and slid into place?
My main concern would be the quality of the sprocket puller, getting the temps right, and working quickly to avoid freezing the sprocket partially on the shaft.
A puller was the only special I needed, (and like a cheapskate, I borrowed that).

Sunbeem.

+1. It's easy to get the hot gear back on. Getting the old one off is the trick. No matter how good their tool is, you'll still need to heat up the old sprocket to get it off. A $20 to $30.00 puller works fine. Heat sprocket, tighten puller...pop!, heat sprocket tighten puller....pop! again and again until it comes all the way off. Use a large hose clamp around the puller jaws to keep them in contact with the sprocket. Put an 8mm pan head allen screw in the end of the crank to protect it.

mattcfish wrote: Use a large hose clamp around the puller jaws to keep them in contact with the sprocket. Put an 8mm pan head allen screw in the end of the crank to protect it.

Both good tricks Matt.