Starter torque
Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:31 am
Recently picked up a new-to-me 1988 R100RT, and noted a new battery was needed, as one cell tested bad. Symptom was that it did not spin the motor very vigorously at all...
I was able to pick up a new one (lead acid) at the local AutoZone store, (CB30L-B) 30 AH, 300CCA for $96. (so its the same specs as the mareg). Spins the motor much better, but I do notice that if I hit the starter just as the engine is hitting the compression stroke, there is a bit of a pause before the starter can crank it over. Is this normal for the 1000cc airhead motors? Coming from an oilhead, I expected the new battery to crank like gangbusters, sort of like a car does...does this indicate starter issues?
Also, this is the first bike I've had with an analog voltmeter...when riding I get 14.8 volts, but when I use turn signals I get a huge dip, like down to 10 volts or so, and the needle pulses between 10-11 volts as the signal blinks on and off. Thing is I don't notice much of a voltage drop at all when the brake light comes on.
Experiences?
I was able to pick up a new one (lead acid) at the local AutoZone store, (CB30L-B) 30 AH, 300CCA for $96. (so its the same specs as the mareg). Spins the motor much better, but I do notice that if I hit the starter just as the engine is hitting the compression stroke, there is a bit of a pause before the starter can crank it over. Is this normal for the 1000cc airhead motors? Coming from an oilhead, I expected the new battery to crank like gangbusters, sort of like a car does...does this indicate starter issues?
Also, this is the first bike I've had with an analog voltmeter...when riding I get 14.8 volts, but when I use turn signals I get a huge dip, like down to 10 volts or so, and the needle pulses between 10-11 volts as the signal blinks on and off. Thing is I don't notice much of a voltage drop at all when the brake light comes on.
Experiences?