R model fuses

[jagarra]

I was working on the old 74 today and was checking the operation of some of the items. I just had installed new grips and bar end mirrors. Retinned the ends of the wires going to the front brake switch and hooked everything up. Attached the neg battery cable and turned on the ignition. Tried the rear brake, no light, tried the front brake, no light and then no indicator lights. The top fuse was blown. I pulled it and it was 8 amps, but the numbers on the block said 15 amps. It is one of those old European style like I used to see on my VW, not very common anymore. So here is the question, do you upgrade to new style fuse holders and fuses , which may be more common or just hang on to this old style type assembly.

[Deleted User 62]

The old style ceramic fuses are still readily available, but the glass tube type will do the trick without modifying the assembly.

[Airbear]

I've switched to the blade type fuses, scrounged from the dead Mitsubishi in my backyard.



They have the same spade connectors as our Airheads, so are easy to fit with tails. I use 'double-adaptor' spade terminals to connect them to the board and the fuses float about above the rat's nest, making them easy to find and check.

ps: If you don't have a dead Mitsubishi in your back yard, you have my sympathy.

[SteveD]

The old style ceramic fuses are still readily available, but the glass tube type will do the trick without modifying the assembly.

I've never used them because they aren't pointed on the ends. The oem euro style fuses seat nicely into the lugs because of the slight point. Would these glass fuses move/slide out d'ya think???

[Deleted User 62]

Hmmm, I seem to remember using glass fuses with a nub on both ends, but maybe they are NLA... or my memory is fading.

[Major Softie]

I haven't seen the pointed glass fuses for a long time, and I can't find them on the web. The ceramic fuses are very easy to find on the web though.

[jagarra]

I may convert to something like airbear has, I'm not fond of the European style. I do have a Mitsubishi sitting it my driveway, haven't driven it much but I keep it around for boonie bashing. Trying to find my mini circuit breaker with the alligator clips lead hanging off it so I can troubleshoot what blew the fuse in the first place. Even at 8 amps the brake circuit shouldn't have drawn that much current. I don't think standard fuses would work in this application, the clip would not hold them securely enough, especially with the vibration and jarring about. Has anyone moved the fuses to a more accessible spot?

[Jean]

I have seen the ceramic fuses for sale at ADVANCE.
You don't need the circuit breaker,
You can hook a multimeter [on the lowest resistance scale] to the fuse terminal that connects to the various switches and lights, and to a ground (earth) point. If the meter reads infinity ohms, operate each switch until you show "0" ohms (short). ALL circuits ought to show a little resistance if nothing's wrong.
If the meter shows a very low resistance or zero with NO switch ON, remove the accessable bulbs one at a time until the meter shows an open-circuit. That will tell you which circuit the short is in.
ONE OTHER THING, If it was a very old fuse (maybe original) it might have been corroded so it would not carry the rated current. Try cleaning the holder contacts and putting a new fuse in...that might be all that's needed.

[jagarra]

Great advise Jean, thanks. I did buy a pig tail with a nice new GM style mini fuse that is readily available. So I may end up with that as the replacement. Did check for the VW style fuse, but they were not on the shelf at all. Kind of surprising as there are a lot of VWs in Nevada. If I remember correctly had to go to a number of places before I found a package to carry in my 84 Vanagan.
On another note, does the headlight just snap into place with no securing devises? Considering the cost of the unit, I was surprised not to see any retaining screws.
I'll give your procedure a go on Monday.

regards,

gg

[Jean]

On my '78 there is a screw hidden in the bottom near the front of the shell...but on my '71 /5 the ring/holder just snaps in place.
We will need to hear from someone with a /6 more like yours to find out for sure.
BUT, you can use these 2 as an example of one extreme or the other. When I remove the headlight- ring and all- on either one I make a pad with a large towel, on the fender, just in case I have butter-fingers. The wires on both are long enough that the assembly will rest on the pad.