Boxerworks.com

I have two sets of 32mm carbs and one set appears to be modified.

My other bikes have 40mm so I can't use them for comparison.

It appears that somebody may have added the outlets for a carb synchronizer (as seen to the right of the name-plate on the first carb in the photo)?
The first carb has 2 tubes and the second carb has one. Are the both potentially ruined?

The second set of carbs (not pictured) doesn't have any 'tubes' added to it.

Also, can the name plate be replaced on these? If so, how?

As long as they are blocked they should not affect running.

When using the ports for balancing they must be equal in all ways. Meaning that the drilling into the venturi must be equal in size, position and depth on both left and right carbs.

So it is probably safe to run the carbs that have not been drilled into.
In the photo, the second carb has a tube in it but nothing blocking the hole. These carbs look like they would become a project.

on to my second question... the other carbs are in nasty shape. The name plates are trashed. Can the name plate be replaced on these? If so, how?

jjwithers wrote:So it is probably safe to run the carbs that have not been drilled into.
In the photo, the second carb has a tube in it but nothing blocking the hole. These carbs look like they would become a project.

on to my second question... the other carbs are in nasty shape. The name plates are trashed. Can the name plate be replaced on these? If so, how?

Yes the name plates can be replaced. Bing sells replacement plates. The tricky part is drilling out the pegs (for lack of a better word--I'm sure one exists. I just can't think of it now.) used to stake them in place.

http://bingcarburetor.com/bmw/cvaccessories.html

Of course, you could always send the carbs to Bing for a complete overhaul.

FWIW, i called Bing and the overhaul is $430 for regular foam floats.
They won't replace the name plates because you have to drill out those pegs and he said it was too tricky. They will sell name plates though.
A standard overhaul kit with needles and everything is $210 if you want to do it yourself.

I began to consider a different brand of carb but i want to leave it 'BMW' so I am going to stick with Bings.

But i started to wonder if what the difference would be if i threw a different set of 32mm bings on there. Like flat tops or something else. I've always liked the look of flat top carbs but they could perform like doggy-dung for all i know.
The engine will have a Siebenrock kit, lightened flywheel, etc...

The name plates are held on by Drive Screws. They're like nails for metal. I've used them at work. They aren't mean't to come out, but it can be done.
You should be able to gently pry them out. It will trash the nameplate but that doesn't matter.I might pay to protect the carb body before you start.I'm going to do the same thing...one day....

State of the art carburetors with 'nailed on' name plates.
No wonder they lost the war.

I have successfully pried out drive screws. The tool you need is a pair of flush cut dykes or cutters. Flush cuts have the cutting edge flush with on side of the jaws so there is no bevel to the cutting edge, used in electronics repair. You could then squeeze around the head of the nail where it meets the ID plate working it out, however this will play hell with the cutting edge of the dykes. I used to have a set set aside for abuse for such jobs. I believe I have a supply of some of the metal nails, think they may be smaller in diameter.

jjwithers wrote:.... I've always liked the look of flat top carbs but they could perform like doggy-dung for all i know.
The engine will have a Siebenrock kit, lightened flywheel, etc...

Given they only lasted 2 years in production you would think there must have been something inferior about flat tops but mine seem to work just fine with the possible exception of the enricher not having a very progressive effect.

I like the look of them too if they have a truly flat top which can be nicely polished (78 -79 models ? ). There are some (possibly 1980 models) where there is a circular ridge cast into the edge of the top so that the flat part is in a slight depression.

I've not done this but I'll put the idea out there in case it helps anyone. You could file the heads off the drive screws and then pry off the name plate. The stubs of the drive screws would then be proud of the carb surface. Grip those with a plier with nice sharp teeth and work them out. I think the plate is of a semi substantial thickness and if it is, there would be a considerable amount still protuding to work with.

Chuey