Head Stud Repair Tips
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 1:18 pm
Looks I'm on a bad luck streak.
The situation: 82 R100 with 48k miles.....pulled head stud, left side, upper front, yeah the common one for stripping.
I know the torque wrench I use clicks at 4 ft-lb lower (actual) than setting ( safe side ). I always 5 step may way up to 25 ft-lb indicated when re-torquing and when I reach 25 it is actually 21 ft-lb.
Retorquing before valve clearance setting and only got torque of 18 ft-lb, when I went for the 25 ft-lb, there were a lot of curse words emanating from my garage.
I dunno- maybe PO started the raod to stripped or maybe there is some validity to the sthread fatigue theor for these studs. Can't see how my 21 ft-lb would have cause a pull-put.
I plan on using BMW's long reach repair coil and I know about keeping swarf where it doesn't belong after teh drill/tap routine. Any additional tips welcomed as I haven't done this repair on a BMW before ( but have done plenty if helicoil jobs ).
I'll start this job as soon as I gather the stuff
The situation: 82 R100 with 48k miles.....pulled head stud, left side, upper front, yeah the common one for stripping.
I know the torque wrench I use clicks at 4 ft-lb lower (actual) than setting ( safe side ). I always 5 step may way up to 25 ft-lb indicated when re-torquing and when I reach 25 it is actually 21 ft-lb.
Retorquing before valve clearance setting and only got torque of 18 ft-lb, when I went for the 25 ft-lb, there were a lot of curse words emanating from my garage.
I dunno- maybe PO started the raod to stripped or maybe there is some validity to the sthread fatigue theor for these studs. Can't see how my 21 ft-lb would have cause a pull-put.
I plan on using BMW's long reach repair coil and I know about keeping swarf where it doesn't belong after teh drill/tap routine. Any additional tips welcomed as I haven't done this repair on a BMW before ( but have done plenty if helicoil jobs ).
I'll start this job as soon as I gather the stuff