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The hot topic below that touched on an older bike getting shipped got me to wondering, if I've been using the correct technique to trailer these bikes. I have moved two of them together once and have moved a single on the same trailer perhaps a half dozen or more times.

I was always told to merely strap down the front forks and winch them down well - and check their tension often and at every stop - of course without the use of ANY stand(s). The rear wheels were never off of the ground, but while trailering two bikes on the same trailer which was really a bit too tight for them, the only additional thing I recall doing was screwing a pair of small 2X4's or whatever wood I had around up against each side of each bike's rear wheels - I did this because the heads were so close and the bikes needed offset some in order for them not to bang each other up, it seemed a goad precaution to keep them from moving laterally any on the trailer and banging each other up.

I should have mentioned at the top, I am speaking of early SWB /5 bikes, not the earlier Earles forks on older bikes. I saw Duane mention the bike should essentially ride as it would with a rider on it when properly tethered. If I had to guess, while the rear wheel never left the trailer and the bike just stood there with stands up as if it were taking a ride on a straight road, I am wondering now, there likely is a limit to how tight one should/or need winch the forks down isn't there? This current bike with such low miles, obviously was put away for many years (likely after a front end crash as it had a metal generic fender up front...) I am wondering for future reference; compressing the forks say half way, is that adequate? Or should one pull them all the way down to rest on the rubber bumpers inside?

I'll wait for comments before I fess up to anything. I know one person that might be able to put two and two together already on this deal... But if I am the cause of anything further from the last trip the bike had made via trailer other than what I became aware of already and fessed up to here, I'd just be pleased to here the "right way." of doing such a thing and move on knowing that if I made a mistake, that is one less I will make in the future.

Thanks everyone in advance.
dwire

You know Dwire, this post really needs some pictures... NOT!

What? I must have missed a lot around here. I read your entire post, so I'm going to go with the notion your post was simple sarcasm...

No Dwire, I was just kidding. Post some pictures of your tie down arrangement if you want to. I'm sure somebody will chime in with suggestions...

I'm not getting the unwritten part of the post, but, as to the written part:

It is certainly not a good idea to cinch the front down so tight that the front suspension is completely collapsed. You want the bike to be able to absorb road shock on its suspension. As for the rear, the two 2x4's would be a perfectly fine solution until you hit a big enough bump to have the rear tire bounce out of the groove between the boards, and then the bike's heads could collide. Especially since, depending on the angle of the front tiedowns, they could even be trying to pull the rear wheel up. Even a single rear tie down going straight down to prevent such a thing would solve the problem, but the rear tiedown would receive less shock loading if you use two at an angle more like the front.

I think there are basically two camps when it comes to strapping down vehicle loads. One will say it's best to strap it down to the point where the trailering vehicles suspension does all the work, while the other will say just enough to hold it securely to allow the towed vehicles suspension to work as it normally would. With bikes (especially vintage) I've always practiced the latter so as not to damage the front forks by completely collapsing them for any great length of time.

Either way, I've always found that using handlebar straps like these make the job much easier.

http://www.tobefast.com/canyon-dancer-2 ... 02220.html

Yes and yes... I'll explain. We did run a tie-down ratchet strap right through the rear wheels' spoked rims so they would not hop up when both bikes were transported together and as well I did the same when just transporting my current bike - though less the 2X4's - which worked out OK. Even with the bikes slightly offset, the heads were less than an inch apart and never rubbed one another. The only casualty was my ex's engine badges one night in a Hotel - no idea why they did not "double down" with mine too...

So I guess I've had the right idea, but the last turn around on a trailer was with completely failed forks from top to bottom (I knew this) but had to hold it down in some way. It got there and back. The seals that popped out, they were hard as rocks anyhow and they'd have likely not done so anyway if I would have had the correct rubber bumpers at the bottom of the stanchions.

Thanks for reaffirming what was done right and what was wrong. I appreciate the guidance. The R75/5 has one very small move to make it out and up on an air-lift table; I think all of that might end up becoming a bit creative. All I can say is I am glad the parents never got rid of the lift table after I left and they got out of service (they got out of service because no one services things to speak of anymore, not because I left; that was planned...) I think it has a higher calling than being a place to stack junk on as it is currently...

KauaiSlash5 wrote:I think there are basically two camps when it comes to strapping down vehicle loads. One will say it's best to strap it down to the point where the trailering vehicles suspension does all the work, while the other will say just enough to hold it securely to allow the towed vehicles suspension to work as it normally would. With bikes (especially vintage) I've always practiced the latter so as not to damage the front forks by completely collapsing them for any great length of time.

Either way, I've always found that using handlebar straps like these make the job much easier.

http://www.tobefast.com/canyon-dancer-2 ... 02220.html

I think I've seen those used for dirt bikes and I believe I saw a Cafe' bike roll through town in a truck bed using them in the not so distant past??? I would agree, sure would be nice to allow the trailer to take ALL OF THE PUNISHMENT, but sadly, my trailer does not exactly have a stellar suspension system! The suspension is based on the fact you overload it to the point it can't bounce all over! Well, there might be a pair of leaf springs under there, but darned if you'd know it most of the time looking in the mirror.

Interesting notion those straps as they sort of change the physics of how the bike is held down - I'd guess less fork crushing is necessary for the same holding power - just thinking aloud I guess. I'll keep my eyes open and see if anyone is using them and take a better gander at them. Thanks!

I ALWAYS use a Canyon Dancer (fairing or not), the problem I am dealing with is the rear of the /5 moving sideways as I roll-down the road with it in a trailer (I am worried that it will get too far over and "lay down").

Vince

Major Softie wrote:I'm not getting the unwritten part of the post

I looked everywhere for the unwritten part to see if I 'got it'.
Any tips on where to start looking?

As for tying bikes in trailers, try tying an RS in a trailer. there aren't many attachment points.