Boxerworks.com

I usually don't get anal about things like this....but

One of the guys I watch on YouTube was very forcefully saying not to use nickel based anti-seize paste on the exhaust threads of airheads, he recommends ONLY copper based paste.

I've been using nickel based because its rated to over 2000F whereas the copper based stuff ( same mfr ) is rated to 1800F.

I clean the threads and lube with paste every year ( did it yesterday too ) to avoid galling. Never had a problem other than the time I put factory spec torque on the exhaust nuts - never again.

I'd like to know other people's opinion on this and why.

Ray

Thanks for mentioning avoiding the factory torque. We would tighten it up to some small torque, start it up and then tighten only to what was required to be quiet. It was never near the factory number.

The whole point is to get a seal, so why would anyone want more torque than required? Blindly following BMW specs can lead to trouble. One should always consider that torque specs are the max, not the minimum. Rod and flywheel bolts are to be taken up to the spec, but many don't need it.

Over the years I have seen factory specs to be way off. If it seems wrong, then question it before using the spec.

Ray from Indiana wrote:I usually don't get anal about things like this....but

One of the guys I watch on YouTube was very forcefully saying not to use nickel based anti-seize paste on the exhaust threads of airheads, he recommends ONLY copper based paste.


I clean the threads and lube with paste every year ( did it yesterday too ) to avoid galling. Never had a problem other than the time I put factory spec torque on the exhaust nuts - never again.

I'd like to know other people's opinion on this and why.

Ray

I've seen his videos too, and no, he doesn't like the silver anti-seize at all. I picked some up to try it out, after a season the silver stuff does seem a little 'stiff' in the threads. I'm gonna try the copper and see how that lasts. We'll see.

Speaking of keeping things lubed, I'm replacing my heat sink grease, and while I have the tank off I wanted to check and lube the plug lead boots...is it ok to coat the tips and boots with dielectric grease before plugging them back into the coil? Or will that make them too 'slippery'? Inquiring minds, and all that....

I just read somewhere (can't remember the source) that antiseize isn't recommended for spark plugs. I've always used it on my /6 and Sportster--no problems. Opinions?

Primate wrote:I just read somewhere (can't remember the source) that antiseize isn't recommended for spark plugs. I've always used it on my /6 and Sportster--no problems. Opinions?

I always used it. No problems.

Depends on the plugs . . . at least according to NGK:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-063 ... isieze.pdf

When it comes to anti seize, preventative maintenance works best.
Nothing on my bike stays together long enough to seize.

Major Softie wrote:Depends on the plugs . . . at least according to NGK:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-063 ... isieze.pdf

NGK is so good to us consumers - lots of good info from their website.

I'm afraid I was putting anti-seize on my NGK plugs with shiny metal - but I normally check my Popeye arms at the door when entering my workshop.

I would thread the spark plug down to seat, and then tighten it no more than 90° additional.

Spark plugs are one thing I managed NOT to break on my BMW.

Just a friendly reminder to my ADD friends.

The base question was about copper versus nickel anti-sieze on exhaust spigot threads.

If we don't know, its ok to say so.

I sure as hell don't know. I always used the silver stuff. But then I ran my gearbox with a lost drain plug, too.