Boxerworks.com

1. Any tips for removing a starter for a 1975 R75/6?

2. Anyone have a link to a good instructions for doing so?

3. Any experience with the EnDuraLast replacement from Euro Moto Electrics?

4. Is their battery cable replacement set better than stock?

Thanks in advance.

1: A 13mm box end with thin walls, (Snap on) helps a lot.

2: Pretty straight forward, just disconnect the ground first.

3: Had an Enduralast for two winters and it was quieter than my Valeo.

4: Any battery cables are better than stock.

Disconnect the black grounding wire from the battery.
Remove the tank.
Remove the clam shells and air filter.
Remove the front alternator cover.
Remove the starter cover.
There are two 13mm bolts at the rear of the starter.
There is one 10mm bolt attached to a flange at the front of the starter.
Remove the starter.
I just rebuilt the starter on my '75 R90/6. It's not an overly difficult job. The only tricky part is reinstalling the new brushes and setting the springs in place. Are you doing a rebuild or a replacement starter?

I found I needed a 1/4" drive with the socket in order to get to the bolts...have it on a swivel might help too. Seems like once you get them off, reverse the orientation of the bolt/nut so as to make it easier next time.

Kurt in S.A.

Crunch,

I was thinking of doing a replacement to get up and running quickly. Then I'll have a spare to rebuild when I've got some more time. Enduralast cost is $165. Valeo is $265 (from EME). Nippondenso (Motorrad Elektrik) is $350. Thought to try the Enduralast.

EMH wrote:
I was thinking of doing a replacement to get up and running quickly. Then I'll have a spare to rebuild when I've got some more time. Enduralast cost is $165. Valeo is $265 (from EME). Nippondenso (Motorrad Elektrik) is $350. Thought to try the Enduralast.

Presuming that your present starter is a Bosch, when rebuilding it beware of replacing the bushings in the sliding starter gear assembly. A round, very stiff, circlip has to be compressed as the assembly is replaced on the shaft. And there's no good way to get that stiff circlip pressed enough. I finally got it, using a method I didn't approve of, and it worked. But the problem has lodged indellibly inside my brain.

If it turns out that there IS a problem with the bushings, then I would say to search the internet and have the fix thought through before disassembling the assembly. (There was a pretty good article on some tractor website that dealt with the problem.)


Ken

Ken in Oklahoma wrote:(There was a pretty good article on some tractor website that dealt with the problem.)

Was the site called "thisoldtractor" by Gregory Bender? I used to have links to that exact same article, but they're dead now. The site still exists but focus more on Guzzis now.

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/

Hmmm...I did some checking on his site, using the search box at the top and came up with this:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/ ... bosch-.htm

So, looks like just the URL changed.

Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A. wrote: Was the site called "thisoldtractor" by Gregory Bender? I used to have links to that exact same article, but they're dead now. The site still exists but focus more on Guzzis now.

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/

Hmmm...I did some checking on his site, using the search box at the top and came up with this:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/ ... bosch-.htm

So, looks like just the URL changed.

Kurt in S.A.

Yes, that is the article. A wonderful article. As I read through it I didn't recall the Steve Hilhorst addendum regarding the circlip. I don't think I used a pipe wrench to encourage the Bendix assembly over the circlip. And in my threshing about for a solution I would surely have tried it. But it doesn't matter, either way.


If and when I get into a Bosch starter repair again I'll still be leery of removing the Bendix. I would be inclined to set up a dial indicator perpendicular to the shaft and try to discover how many thousandths of "wiggle" I have in the existing bushings. But of course there is no specification as to how much wiggle, if any, is allowed. I seem to remember thinking that next time I would put things back together without the bushing replacements and see what I have. At the time dealing with the circlip was so onerous that the prospect of an extra R&R of pulling the starter again seemed like it would pale in comparison to dealing with the circlip.

Interestingly, when I was posting about this problem on the old forum, there was a guy who contacted me offline about the starter. He repaired them on a regular basis and had special tools to deal with the job. One of those tools was one which would compress that circlip without slipping off at the least excuse. Possibly he was seking to drum up some buisness but nothing came of it. This was that period in the old forum when there was a a lot of acrimony on the board. The principal jerk (name witheld) would piss on anybody who didn't acknowledge his genius. The hell of it was, he did know a lot, though his judgments were often controversial. Where I'm headed with all this as that the fellow who contacted me offline couldn't abide the rancor on the forum, so he went away.

Sigh!


Ken

Guzzies and tractors........... who knew?

It is most likely that your bike is fitted with an 8 tooth starter motor, worth checking before you order as if was built in the 76 model year it should have a 9 tooth.

Fitting the wrong gear could have nasty results on the starter ring gear.

The valeo starters as sold by euromotoelectrics will really improve the way your bike starts and the valeos have got over their early mechanical issues.