Boxerworks.com

Hello!

I'm on an '86 R80RT and having problems with my left hand switches

As of now, pretty much thumbing the switch up from low to hi will not activate the hi-beam and will cut ALL lights (except turn signals)

Unless of course I hit it in precisely the correct way and then it works, but that precise way has become more and more erratic.

Rocking the switch down does activate the hi-beam with no worries, however, holding that down and shifting gears gets a little complicated.


The turn signals do a similar thing (most commonly on return to center) if they are not hit in precisely the correct way. Needless to say, this is making night riding quite harrowing.

One way to fix it I was told would be to open up the plastic thing holding the switches and spray it down with contact cleaner.

Another way was to dissemble it, and I believe clean each contact point manually.

Can I get some input?

If you take the switch apart, do it in a large plastic bag so the ball bearing and spring will be caught.

You might start saving up for a new switch. They aren't really that expensive considering how long they last and all they do for you.

01.....61 31 1 244 418.....COMBINATION SWITCH WITH CONTINUOUS LIGHT.....$157.59
01.....61 31 1 244 410.....COMBINATION SWITCH LEFT.....$181.39

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... d=04302013

The second switch is the "Euro" switch that allows you to turn off your headlight.

I don't recall many success stories when it comes to rebuilding/repairing switches.

Good switches can be found on ebay.

ME 109 wrote:I don't recall many success stories when it comes to rebuilding/repairing switches.

Good switches can be found on ebay.

Agree. After 20-30 years of toggling, something must wear and give up. There's some small parts in there, plastic and fragile.

"Buy a new one" as a first response wouldn't seem like the Airhead Way. Isn't there a lengthy webpage treatise available on handlebar switch rebuilding techniques, complete with sidebars on various solder types and techniques, competing plastic epoxies, supply houses for replacement springs, detent balls, etc., discussions about the merits and shortcomings of using various solvents, lubricants, water dispersants, etc. on delicate mechanisms and circuitry?

There are instructions (on line) for rebuilding a /5 switch, but for the R100s, I found the best way to go was find a salvage unit at a swap sale. It's in a bag on the shelf in my garage for the day I need it.
Sometimes things break inside, and there's no good way to repair what broke.

There is a way, if the later switches are sending full headlight current through the switch like the /6 switches, to rewire things with a relay for the dip function. I wired in a VW dip relay and now my "passing beam" function (pushing down on the dip switch) flips the switch in the relay. It's a $30ish fix rather than a $150-180ish fix.

I documented the installation here:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=148&p=28452&hilit=relay#p28452

I've got nothing for your turn signal problem, but a proper cheapskate Airheadist solution would be to confuse the cagers with hand signals while you wait for a right side switch to land in your hands. (later turn signal still on the right???)

Now there we go!

melville wrote:(later turn signal still on the right???)

Nope.

Chuey

justoneoftheguys wrote:If you take the switch apart, do it in a large plastic bag so the ball bearing and spring will be caught.

You may find an appropriate plastic bag at the refrigerator store. Remember, though, don't let anyone close the top when you're in there!

Chuey