Boxerworks.com

I need to put some oil back into my Ikon shocks (apparently they need oil )

I took my shocks to the Ikon factory today where they were put on the dyno. One shock was still alive, but the other was DOA.

The chappy at the Ikon factory sold me a seal kit to recondition my shocks.
The price for them to do the job was $220, kit included.

The price of the seal kit was $45. Bloody expensive really for two seals and four o rings.

Before leaving the factory this arvo, I asked the bloke what oil to use.
He said they use Rando MV 15, which is a multi viscosity oil, or a wide temp range oil. This allows the shock to perform the same way, under a wide oil temp variation.

Anyway, I couldn't find any Rando MV 15 in town. And it comes in a 20, or 205 litre container.
That makes things difficult. I mean, I don't know whether to get enough oil to do 117 Ikon rebuilds, or 1,205 rebuilds.

The only other option is to ask you'se guys what oil you have used to rebuild your Koni's or Ikon's. ??

I'm off on a three day outback blast next Friday and would like to get something sorted. I can always weld the swing arm in position
I'd like to put a suitable oil in there. Any thoughts appreciated.

Edit, You may ask why I didn't get it from Ikon. I'm asking why he didn't say it was like rocking horse shit.

A few suppliers sell HVI synthetic shock, or suspension, fluid which should do the job.

Synthetic is naturally multigrade.Costs $30/$40-a litre.

They sell all grades so if you get a litre of 15wt and a litre of 3wt you can mix the leftover with the 3 wt and use it in your forks - I find it works better than anything else I have tried.

The guy who first sold me the stuff was a desert racer, Swart or something close,and he had a few good wins in the big races to his name, so it must have worked for him.

Thanks chaps, haven't opened them up yet.

As you know, I'm extremely fussy when it comes to not giving too much of a shit.
However, when the opportunity to repent presents itself..............

Just made this



To get in here

ME 109 wrote: Just made this

There's something particularly satisfying about making one's own tools. There is considerable cost savings, of course, but it goes far beyond that I think. At the risk of sounding florid it feels a bit like creating wealth. There will always be a bit of satisfaction in having that tool in your tool box--even if you never use it again.

My new shop in Boise now has an old work-needed, refurb-needed, milling machine and an old metal lathe. With an assortment of welders and metal cutting band saw I feel like there's nothing I can't do--er, after I get the tools all set up, sorted out, and figure out what the hell I'm doing that is.

Ken

I'm pissed now.
Been having more of a rant over on ADV.
Those caps that need to screw off are impossible for me to budge. Heat, 15" pipe wrench..........nothing.

My tool is useless, even with a 2' extension bar. The tool started to damage the holes so I stopped.

Not much need for hydraulic oil as it turns out.

I hate inadequate engineering. Two small holes to take a pin wrench that needs 150 ft. lbs. to undo.......

Of course there are techniques, special tools, experience.

I am annoyed that 'the factory' mentioned nothing about the difficulty in removing these caps.
Especially when I was talking to the main man today. Dumb Aussies.

ME 109 wrote:I'm pissed now.
Been having more of a rant over on ADV.
Those caps that need to screw off are impossible for me to budge. Heat, 15" pipe wrench..........nothing.

My tool is useless, even with a 2' extension bar. The tool started to damage the holes so I stopped.

Not much need for hydraulic oil as it turns out.

I hate inadequate engineering. Two small holes to take a pin wrench that needs 150 ft. lbs. to undo.......

Of course there are techniques, special tools, experience.

I am annoyed that 'the factory' mentioned nothing about the difficulty in removing these caps.
Especially when I was talking to the main man today. Dumb Aussies.

Mine were a little different than yours, but still nasty, sticky high torque items.
I put them on the "once-a-year" list with things like exhaust nuts.
Remove, clean, lube, re-assemble.

ME 109 wrote:I'm pissed now. . . rant . . . impossible for me to budge . . . tool is useless . . . inadequate engineering . . .
I am annoyed . . . Dumb Aussies

Hmmm, seems like this wasn't a good time for me to wax all poetic about making your own tools.

The bastards!


Ken

ME 109 wrote:Just made this

Nice one ME!

As many others of you have probably done too, I made a very similar looking 'two-pin" wrench for the fork caps.

I agree it's satisfying to make your own tools. Recently Mercedes Benz quoted me $1000 to change my serpentine belts, which requires a specialized idler prying tool to do. I indignantly stormed out of there and stopped off at the hardware store to pick up $10 worth of flatbar and fasteners. Within 2 hours of getting home I had the tool made, the belts changed, and a beer in my hand!

Thanks gocytocis,

My tool was completely useless.

I have just come to the conclusion of several hours of getting progressively rougher.

I finally got the bastards out by grinding opposing flats on the nuts, locking the nuts in a vice, and grabbing the chrome shock body with a 15" pipe spanner. The bench started to lift off the ground before they budged.

I need new caps/nuts now.