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The Good, the Bad and Ugly. (in reverse order)
1. The Ugly - On my R100GSPD I noticed the stud holding the bottom shock mount to the hub didn't look right. Stud broken inside hub. I reckon I am very lucky the stud didn't pop out while riding - that could have been very nasty.





2. The Bad - Rang the local (Brisbane - Australia) authorised BMW dealers seeking a new stud. One said not available don't bother asking. The other said they would check and ring me back - (insert sound of crickets). Rang an alternative BMW supplier, at least they said it is not a part they stock but would see what they could do. They rang me back with a price and an delivery time of approx 3-4 weeks.

3. The Good - Check the interwebthingy - Bob's BMW shows part available on order 3-4 days delivery. Delivery cost not so good ordering on line. Overseas phone call established a more reasonable delivery cost, ordered over the phone, delivered in just over 1 week



Decided that while having to pull the hub, I would remove the swingarm and check the driveshaft. U-joints appear to be moving freely but shaft a bit out of phase. Decided to purchase a rebuildable driveshaft (thanks John).



Now just need someone to drill out the broken stud.

Perhaps that stud is something to be checked occassionally.

The preferred replacement part at your local dealer/unit-mover is a new R1200GS.

Good catch! IIRC, funholiday/supershaft had that part break whilst riding and it laid him up for a bit.

We could discuss why it broke, but that would get into "engineering" or lack of....
P.O.: Yeccch!!!

Jean wrote:We could discuss why it broke, but that would get into "engineering" or lack of....
P.O.: Yeccch!!!

Yes we could. It looks like the shiny section is the bit intended to bear the load (transfer it to the housing), and the inner threaded bit is there to act as a built-in press and retainer. I'm also seeing some greenish stuff--maybe 691 Loctite? One might presume the hole to be the tiniest bit wallered out, so maybe some sleeve retainer might be good on the install.

AGreed, melville. Maybe, just maybe the threaded part loosened and let the shiny part move out some.
I would think the shiny part should be a line-to-line fit at least but that's a trick when we are talking about a steel part in an aluminum hole... Assuming that the hole was bored correctly.
It looks like it was wallowing arouond tho. A new stud will wallow too.
Buzz, how many miles do you have on the bike?
If the new stud goes easily into the hole, it will break the same way.

Jean wrote:AGreed, melville. Maybe, just maybe the threaded part loosened and let the shiny part move out some.
I would think the shiny part should be a line-to-line fit at least but that's a trick when we are talking about a steel part in an aluminum hole... Assuming that the hole was bored correctly.
It looks like it was wallowing arouond tho. A new stud will wallow too.
Buzz, how many miles do you have on the bike?
If the new stud goes easily into the hole, it will break the same way.

Thanks for the words of wisdom there. Something for me to definitely consider. I will seek a professional to look at it and advise. To dangerous to risk the stud breaking again.

Bike shows 120,000kms on the odometer.

Locktite will have something for the thread and the plain shank, and it is probably a good choice to use it.

Actually , it is probably a good choice to use bearing fit throughout on a Paralever - I have had both the front and rear bearings turning on the pivot pins rather than the bearing surfaces

Moteren Israel sell oversized front pins which are also cheaper than OEM and have worked fine ther, but no real cure for the rear ones, except keeping the rear drive splines well lubed with the right stuff, so they dont gall and lock the suspension, which overloads everything , including the rear bearing in the box.

Years back Renault CV joint grease was the the only thing that worked on the splines of Triumphs IRS sports cars but there are probably other things available now which will work too.

Now I am off to try and find someone in Adelaide who will sell me Mitas E 07s tires for list, RRP , MSRP , or whatever.
$92- over is the best I could do in five phone calls yesterday, and the only interstate guy on the net who has them wants the list,fitted price plus $40- freight. No one has stock of course--------.

Roy and Buzz, If the hole the shiny shank goes into is too loose, Locktite for threads won't do the trick. I recall Locktite co. used to make a product that woould fill (REAL) space if you had a spun bearing shell, but I don't know the name of it.
Might find it in McMaster-Carr catalog...or from a major bearing supplier.

Jean wrote:Roy and Buzz, If the hole the shiny shank goes into is too loose, Locktite for threads won't do the trick. I recall Locktite co. used to make a product that woould fill (REAL) space if you had a spun bearing shell, but I don't know the name of it.
Might find it in McMaster-Carr catalog...or from a major bearing supplier.

That would be the Sleeve Retainer I mentioned earlier.