Why Does Rob's R65 Run Rough?
Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 11:34 pm
OK, you asked for it. You will not know where to begin.
Last year I installed a 1981 Nikasil (1st year) R65 engine in my frame. It came to me with 37,500 miles on the odometer.
The long-block was stripped of everything of value, save the alternator rotor (they weren't a BMW breaker
) and the clutch.
So I decided to continue the life of a points/condenser guy, and put my old beancan on it, as well as starter, flywheel, etc.
I took this opportunity to replace my well-worn and slightly damaged original headers (one cross-over) with a very [cough] "affordable" set of headers on e-Bay.
It turns out the headers were Bubs which I had always excluded from my possible suppliers. But the bottom line is, these DO NOT fit like OEM, and I don't recommend them to anyone.
There are large gaps in the cross-over (front only) where the compression slits are cut (see link above). The clamps that came with the pipes almost cover the entire slit.
If anyone really wants a set, I'll be thrilled to sell them mine.
My old, nasty ones are going back on ASAP. Hello, Jean.
I cannot rule out the need for new diaphragms. I know I replaced the plastic rings (flat-tops) in the June of 2007, but I'm certain I did not replace the diaphragms. The plastic rings had become enlarged on the I.D. after being pried off at least twice to R/R the diaphragms. The factory fix for the flat-top Bings was to replace the entire slide assembly! Not inexpensive. (there is that ugly philosophy, again)
But Bing, USA finally began carrying the white plastic rings, (cheap, too! ) and all was right with the world.
Looking back through my receipts, I see no purchase of new intake "rubber grommets" as far back as 2000.
I sure thought I would have replaced them last spring when I was putting it back together (save for transmission oil...).
I know how to test for them, but I think addressing the exhaust system is my #1 priority.
Oh, one other act of stupidity to add in to the mix: 3 weeks ago, when I was trying out the new transmission for the first time, I knew the bike wasn't running well, and since it was warmed up, I thought I would attempt tuning the carbs.
After not getting anywhere with traditional methods, I decided to hook up my home-made manometer (with ATF fluid) and see how far off I was.
Well, the left carb began sucking ATF up so fast, and instead of shutting the bike off, I tried to adjust the idle screw.
It ended up sucking in a considerable bit of the fluid before I finally shut it down.I have heard ATF is not supposed to hurt the engine, but ever since, I have seen white smoke coming from the right exhaust. I don't remember seeing it before, but I may not have noticed it. But this is still after riding the bike to the dealers, him test riding it, and working on it, and me riding it home again.
I am worried I may have an oil control ring issue, and I should probably think about a leak-down test.
After the ride 3 weeks ago, I also noticed one pushrod seal leaking, so it may not be such a bad idea to replace them, giving me more insight to the internals. At 37K, I would expect to find the cylinders in pretty good shape, unless it was owned by someone like gspd, in which case, it might have been 137K or 237K!
That is the worst of it, I think!
Oh - I "set my timing" by ear - rotating the beancan and listening for the best idle - and when I asked the mechanic at the dealership to check it, he reported it as being "spot on". I must be better than I thought!
Last year I installed a 1981 Nikasil (1st year) R65 engine in my frame. It came to me with 37,500 miles on the odometer.
The long-block was stripped of everything of value, save the alternator rotor (they weren't a BMW breaker
) and the clutch.So I decided to continue the life of a points/condenser guy, and put my old beancan on it, as well as starter, flywheel, etc.
I took this opportunity to replace my well-worn and slightly damaged original headers (one cross-over) with a very [cough] "affordable" set of headers on e-Bay.
It turns out the headers were Bubs which I had always excluded from my possible suppliers. But the bottom line is, these DO NOT fit like OEM, and I don't recommend them to anyone.
There are large gaps in the cross-over (front only) where the compression slits are cut (see link above). The clamps that came with the pipes almost cover the entire slit.
If anyone really wants a set, I'll be thrilled to sell them mine.
My old, nasty ones are going back on ASAP. Hello, Jean.
I cannot rule out the need for new diaphragms. I know I replaced the plastic rings (flat-tops) in the June of 2007, but I'm certain I did not replace the diaphragms. The plastic rings had become enlarged on the I.D. after being pried off at least twice to R/R the diaphragms. The factory fix for the flat-top Bings was to replace the entire slide assembly! Not inexpensive. (there is that ugly philosophy, again)
But Bing, USA finally began carrying the white plastic rings, (cheap, too!
) and all was right with the world.Looking back through my receipts, I see no purchase of new intake "rubber grommets" as far back as 2000.
I sure thought I would have replaced them last spring when I was putting it back together (save for transmission oil...).
I know how to test for them, but I think addressing the exhaust system is my #1 priority.
Oh, one other act of stupidity to add in to the mix: 3 weeks ago, when I was trying out the new transmission for the first time, I knew the bike wasn't running well, and since it was warmed up, I thought I would attempt tuning the carbs.
After not getting anywhere with traditional methods, I decided to hook up my home-made manometer (with ATF fluid) and see how far off I was.
Well, the left carb began sucking ATF up so fast, and instead of shutting the bike off, I tried to adjust the idle screw.
It ended up sucking in a considerable bit of the fluid before I finally shut it down.I have heard ATF is not supposed to hurt the engine, but ever since, I have seen white smoke coming from the right exhaust. I don't remember seeing it before, but I may not have noticed it. But this is still after riding the bike to the dealers, him test riding it, and working on it, and me riding it home again.
I am worried I may have an oil control ring issue, and I should probably think about a leak-down test.
After the ride 3 weeks ago, I also noticed one pushrod seal leaking, so it may not be such a bad idea to replace them, giving me more insight to the internals. At 37K, I would expect to find the cylinders in pretty good shape, unless it was owned by someone like gspd, in which case, it might have been 137K or 237K!
That is the worst of it, I think!
Oh - I "set my timing" by ear - rotating the beancan and listening for the best idle - and when I asked the mechanic at the dealership to check it, he reported it as being "spot on". I must be better than I thought!