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I have recently (last year or so) upgraded the charging and ignition systems on my 1972 R75/5. Have also fitted 1000cc Siebenrock kit to same bike.
The EME ignition system has been unreliable to say the least. They have been quite good at replacing parts free of charge and offering advise, but i reckon i will give up on idea and return to standard set up.
Has anyone else had issues with this set up?
I think the ignition pick up unit is simply getting too hot. The stator cover is so hot you cannot hold your finger on it. Is that normal?

I use the Silent Hektik ignition on one bike and a Sachse ignition on the other.

Both are crank mounted and both have a variety of ignition curves to suit my dual plugged bikes. Both are assembled in Germany, the SH ignition uses better quality fittings and a Hall trigger, the Sachse unit uses a light beam trigger, because of the possibility of magnetic fields from the alternator causing problems with a hall sensor. The Sachse unit is easier to set up, using a Led light to set the trigger at TDC.

EMC used to use Sachse components in their crank mounted ignition, but stopped doing so and basically got the ignition manufactured elsewhere. This later ignition has caused problems with users judging by comments on ADV, lots of support from EMC, but difficulties remain.



My Sachse ignition has worked fine for about 3 years and 15k miles.

chasbmw wrote:I use the Silent Hektik ignition on one bike and a Sachse ignition on the other.

Both are crank mounted and both have a variety of ignition curves to suit my dual plugged bikes. Both are assembled in Germany, the SH ignition uses better quality fittings and a Hall trigger, the Sachse unit uses a light beam trigger, because of the possibility of magnetic fields from the alternator causing problems with a hall sensor. The Sachse unit is easier to set up, using a Led light to set the trigger at TDC.

My Sachse ignition has worked fine for about 3 years and 15k miles.

Sorry to hijack... this is valuable stuff!

I too am looking at upgrading to electronic ignition on my R100s. I believe my issue is bad set of points or ATU unit... I'd be happy to not adjust points ever again and I don't want to risk another bad ATU as a new after market solution will be cheaper and work.

I was directed to a crank mounted system and have been trying to workout which is best, but I am concerned about their reliability as some of the products don't appear to be robust in construction/packaging so I'm sceptical they'd last long with the heat produced by an airhead the engine. I almost went for the Boyer system until my enlightenment on the crank systems, but now thinking that perhaps this lower tech option might be the most reliable. Just wonder why BMW never fitted a crank mounted ignition system from the start?

Had a look at the Omega unit and that looks very backyard and I have read about units failing...so I am now thinking of sticking with the Boyer and hope my cam shaft isn't bent or that the two sensors will cancel out the run off.

Jim cray fits Boyers to all his bikes......some people hate them, but as they have been in production since 1973, there are a few of them around to have gone wrong. They used to misbehave under low voltage conditions but I think that has been fixed.
check requirements for coil resistance before fitting an ignition, and check to see whether ot not resistor plug caps are required.

I would not fit an electronic ignition whose black box is fitted inside an engine

chasbmw wrote:I would not fit an electronic ignition whose black box is fitted inside an engine

Sorry I didn't understand that statement, so your electronic ignition has it's black box outside of the front cover?

I'll need to look at the fitting instructions for the Boyer kit to see if that is a bit more sensible, it appears to be similar to the electronic CAN on the later models (with the extra sensor), my 1987 R80 has one of those and it failed. Luckily I managed to find the right hall effect sensor and replaced it in my original CAN, done 3k miles on it and it is still good.

My Dyna III has a "block box", ie, the brains of the system. It is mounted out in front, on a convenient cross-over tube on my /7 front frame. It gets plenty of air for cooling. I think that is what is being mentioned...a black box that might generate internal heat shouldn't be installed inside the engine/cowling somewhere without adequate cooling.

Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A. wrote:My Dyna III has a "block box", ie, the brains of the system. It is mounted out in front, on a convenient cross-over tube on my /7 front frame. It gets plenty of air for cooling. I think that is what is being mentioned...a black box that might generate internal heat shouldn't be installed inside the engine/cowling somewhere without adequate cooling.
Kurt in S.A.

Thanks, yeah I wasn't sure if his model was fitted in the engine cover...but looking at the most impressive Silent Hektik I want one right away, but it is very expensive... Not sure I really need the accuracy, just a solution to my problem, would be happy with a consistent enough engine and less high performance. I have three BMW airheads, so it wouldn't be fair if I upgraded just one.

I am pretty sure my issue will be the points or ATU as I've got history from 82 and no timing chain job....so if I cannot find a good and less expensive crank ignition I'll go with the boyer, it has two sensors so I presume it would be better than the single pickup crank mounted systems.

Seems like first thing on the list is a new set of points. Cheapest thing to do. Nothing like the old points system when everything is right. And if you do to an electronic ignition, you'd better carry with you the ability to switch back. So that seems to suggest you need to figure out the original system before you move on. That's the way I see it.

Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A. wrote:Seems like first thing on the list is a new set of points. Cheapest thing to do. Nothing like the old points system when everything is right. And if you do to an electronic ignition, you'd better carry with you the ability to switch back. So that seems to suggest you need to figure out the original system before you move on. That's the way I see it.

Kurt in S.A.

+1

Both my bikes are dual plugged so my choice of ignition is driven by those systems that have a choice of ignition maps, with one that it suitable for dual plug use.

I fitted my first electronic ignition to a Commando in 1973, according to some sources the well publicised main bearing problems with the Combat Commandos was due to a revised contact breaker setup, that refused to hold ignition timing.
I have fitted almost all my BMWs with electronic ignition, still waiting to be left on the road. Retro fitting points to BMWs can be an expensive business especially if you are using new parts

There are some ignitions for Nortons and other Brit bikes, that package the electronics inside the original points cavity, hot and very vibratory, not a good place to put electronics however well potted. Check out Tri Spark.

But as ever its a matter of taste.