Boxerworks.com

I have been lurking around for about a year now. It's now time to start being an active player.
I live in Utah and have acquired a 1976 BMW R75/6. Mostly all original. Runs fairly well and I try to take it out and ride almost every day.

I cleaned the carbs out today, and decided to take a test run. Got 1/2 mile from the house and the clutch cable broke.
I have been looking around to see if anyone has posted pictures or videos of clutch cable replacement. I am not finding any. So are there some? Can some one point me to useful information on this. I would appreciate it.

Here are a few photos of the bike.

Thanks in advance. Looking forward to large amounts of time spent on this site. Learning new things is exciting!

Welcome! Ah, the Wasatch!!

I suggest a quick read of this past thread:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9784

Where did the cable break? Probably 9 times out of 10 it breaks by the hand lever.

As for pictures, etc., there's really nothing very critical about routing except that the routing should not have any sharp bends but run in a gentle curve around the bars and down to the right side of the transmission. There is one important measurement for adjusting the cable. The should be 201mm from the back side of the transmission boss on the right rear of the transmission to the front side the barrel that hooks into the lever at the back side of the clutch. This adjustment is made by the knurled knob at the handlebar lever. There should also be about 5-6mm of free play at the handlebar lever before you feel the pressure of the clutch. This is done by turning the bolt/jamb nut at the back of the transmission.

Just make sure than the cable rotates freely at the hand lever as you slowly work the lever back to the grip. If it doesn't find out why and either clean/lube or get rid of the thing that is preventing it from rotating.

Kurt in S.A.

Nice bike und wilkommen.

barryh wrote:201mm is set using the handlebar cable adjuster and the free play is set using the clutch operating arm adjuster.

That maybe the opposite of what's intuitive but it's the method stated in later riders handbooks and it works. Earlier riders handbooks tell you to set the operating arm parallel with the gearbox rear cover when the handlebar lever is at half travel.

The 201 mm method is just an easier alternative that gives the same result.

Gidday,

Welcome and I love the bike... also that mountain in the back ground

Thanks for the replies

Thanks for all the input. I got a chance to put the new one on using your input and it went on nice and easy and works great.

As a test, pull the clutch lever in as slowly as you possibly can. Watch the cable barrel rotate in the lever. It better be totally smooth, or you will break your new cable too soon. If it is even slightly jerky, fix it.

Duane Ausherman wrote:As a test, pull the clutch lever in as slowly as you possibly can. Watch the cable barrel rotate in the lever. It better be totally smooth, or you will break your new cable too soon. If it is even slightly jerky, fix it.

Many people suggested this. It was the first thing I tested.

I also suggest that you learn to ride without a clutch. It is fairly easy and with a bit of practice, it works just fine. I once broke a clutch cable on a Honda and didn't have time to stop at the dealer to get one. I rode it back and forth to school for a day with no clutch cable. Riding a BMW without the clutch is even easier. You could go to http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/control/index.htm#anchor and almost at the bottom is a bit about riding without a cable. You can also store a spare cable alongside the working one and it is then pre-installed. It would only take you a few minutes to install it.

You can also find other articles on this skill, Google is your friend.

Hey gr8shotz00 - what part of Utah? I used to live in Provo and Orem - Rod