Well Brad, I recall you saying before the trip you were wondering if the back tire should have been changed. Either way, we got back on the hair on that tire's chinny, chin, chin.
I've had good luck with Shinko's. They sure don't last as long as Metz Marathons. Maybe I can get 6 or 7k out of the rear, a bit more out of the front. Haven't noticed any slip problem with wet roads (course I pare it down a fair amount when the roads are slippery). I have them on the /7, RS, and on the front of the KRS. I'll keep buying them if the prices stay low as they are. I got real tired of spending 250 to 300 for a set of tires that just don't really go that far. The Dunlop 491s were a different story, getting up and over 15k on the rear. They're no longer available.
Shinko 712 Tires
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dwerbil
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Re: Shinko 712 Tires
Click for pics
04 R1150RT ~ 78 R100/7 ~ 84 RS ~ 93 K1100RS ~ 65 R60/2
Randy in Round Rock
Re: Shinko 712 Tires
All good input, gents. Thanks. I have a number of bikes that I ride so none of them get many miles put on them. Age is probably more of a limiting factor than wear. The K70's on my 305 scrambler get changed because I flog that bike hard twice a year and pay with it a bit in between. 2500 mi on the rear is pretty normal for a K70. Good thing I don't ride that bike a lot more.
regards,
Rob
regards,
Rob
Re: Shinko 712 Tires
Professional Photo.....
The guy trades under the name of "Picman" and takes photos at a number of track day events in the UK and in France.
Very slick operation only one photographer, with 2 computer people, at the end of the day you pays your money and Take away a CD with a mixture of photos of you together with a generic mix of photos showing everyone else.
The guy trades under the name of "Picman" and takes photos at a number of track day events in the UK and in France.
Very slick operation only one photographer, with 2 computer people, at the end of the day you pays your money and Take away a CD with a mixture of photos of you together with a generic mix of photos showing everyone else.
Charles
Replica 1070 R90/S (based on 82 RT)
1975 R90/6
Replica 1070 R90/S (based on 82 RT)
1975 R90/6
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Airbear
- Posts: 2887
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:02 am
- Location: Oz, lower right hand side, in a bit, just over the lumpy part.
Re: Shinko 712 Tires
Ah, goodo. Thanks Charles.
He caught such a good shot of you cranked over in that corner. Well done, everyone.
He caught such a good shot of you cranked over in that corner. Well done, everyone.
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
Re: Shinko 712 Tires
Bit the bullet yesterday and decided to stick with my old ways and go with a known entity. Ordered a set of Pilot Activs from Bike Bandit. Pricewise, they are only a few bucks more expensive than the Shinkos. And it will also give me a chance to see if I like them enough to put them on my 305 Scrambler at some point since that bike does get ridden hard 2 to 3 times a year.
regards,
rob
regards,
rob
Re: Shinko 712 Tires
I have Pilot Activs on my Honda HawkGT. Happy with them.
I've spent most of my money on women, motorcycles, and beer.
The rest of it I just wasted.
The rest of it I just wasted.
Re: Shinko 712 Tires
Bit the bullet on a related item as well. I bought the Horror Fright tire changer attachment. I know many have said it is a POS, but, looking at the steel that is in it and with a sale price of $39.95 and an additional 25% off coupon, I could not buy the steel to make it for that price. And in concept, it is very similar to the No-Mar that costs about $800.00.
Made up some clamping blocks out of rock maple similar to Mojoblocks and made mating scratch guards from pine. I think the maple will hold up well. If not, I'll just machine new blocks from nylon or HDPVC. I had the maple so that's why I used it.
I already had the tire changer base. Got it for 10 bucks one day while surfing CL. That piece has the bead breaker, which I've used a few times and it works fine.
Also decided to bolt the changer to the floor when I use it. So, put four 3/8-18 Redhead sleeves in the floor for mounting purposes.
All that is left is so machine a pilot slug to go in the end of the center bar for doing typical bike wheels with wheel bearings in them. The centerbar has a big threaded end that screws into the clamping arms center. It is much bigger than any motorcycle axle. But will work well for wheels with no bearings like rear BMW wheels and any single sided swingarm wheel. So, I'll make the pilot to fit in the other end. Have no idea what the Chinese were thinking when they made that huge bar with the threaded end.
I did clamp an old HD rim in it and it gripped it nicely with the maple blocks. But only a true test will be to dismount an old tire and mount a new one. My front Pilot Activ showed up today and suspect the rear will be here soon.
I might make up a bar like the No-Mar bar with the HDPVC ends. Making those ends is a easy lathe job. I have some Delrin which is probably the stuff to use. Not sure I have enough. Nylon would probably work, too. I think I have a piece of 1 inch nylon rod. We'll see how the HF bar works and then decide. I can always make protectors from soda bottles. Although thought about slipping a piece of HDPVC hose over the end. I've seen Tygon used, but it is not slippery like HDPVC.
regards,
Rob
Made up some clamping blocks out of rock maple similar to Mojoblocks and made mating scratch guards from pine. I think the maple will hold up well. If not, I'll just machine new blocks from nylon or HDPVC. I had the maple so that's why I used it.
I already had the tire changer base. Got it for 10 bucks one day while surfing CL. That piece has the bead breaker, which I've used a few times and it works fine.
Also decided to bolt the changer to the floor when I use it. So, put four 3/8-18 Redhead sleeves in the floor for mounting purposes.
All that is left is so machine a pilot slug to go in the end of the center bar for doing typical bike wheels with wheel bearings in them. The centerbar has a big threaded end that screws into the clamping arms center. It is much bigger than any motorcycle axle. But will work well for wheels with no bearings like rear BMW wheels and any single sided swingarm wheel. So, I'll make the pilot to fit in the other end. Have no idea what the Chinese were thinking when they made that huge bar with the threaded end.
I did clamp an old HD rim in it and it gripped it nicely with the maple blocks. But only a true test will be to dismount an old tire and mount a new one. My front Pilot Activ showed up today and suspect the rear will be here soon.
I might make up a bar like the No-Mar bar with the HDPVC ends. Making those ends is a easy lathe job. I have some Delrin which is probably the stuff to use. Not sure I have enough. Nylon would probably work, too. I think I have a piece of 1 inch nylon rod. We'll see how the HF bar works and then decide. I can always make protectors from soda bottles. Although thought about slipping a piece of HDPVC hose over the end. I've seen Tygon used, but it is not slippery like HDPVC.
regards,
Rob