1984 R80 valve noise. I know ...I know....it's been said

[Spencersomewhere]

I have a 1984 R80 that I
Bought from someone who hadn't ridden it in a while. Long story short I got it running and rode it for about 3k miles. It died on me and so I rebuilt carbs because I just Knew they were culprits. Bike still wouldn't start. Found a thread talking about valve adjustments possibly being culprits. Adjusted them to specs. Bike starts and idles better than ever but valves sound loud and like cymbals in a rock band while riding. Here is a link to video. http://youtu.be/Z6ev9rjFpes
Rockers are adjusted to specs. Valves were checked and rechecked. Is this normal? Oh this is my first BMW bike. Have had two beemer cars. Any ideas?

[Airbear]

G'day Spencer, and welcome aboard.
Lots of people have looked at your post but nobody seems to be saying anything. I'll have a shot and say, "Ah, yes sir, they all do that." Certainly, my old R90 rattles quite a bit in the valve train department, but being intimately involved with air-cooled VWs in the olden daze I find the clicking and ticking comforting. Most Airhead riders wear earplugs and some even have stickers on their bikes that read, "Loud Valves Save Lives". Some of these bikes are really pretty quiet.

It is hard to tell from your video whether the noise has any alarming bum notes. How does it sound when you are sitting on the bike with your helmet on? That is my normal gauge. These motors are wonderfully primitive, robust and forgiving, but you will probably want to 'go in there' one day to see for yourself that all is ok. Some investigating beforehand is advised - a compression test, or better, a leak-down test, will give you some good clues. And it's a good idea to note any difference in valve clearances over time - to keep an eye on valve recession.

By the way, what valve clearances have you used?

[jagarra]

Another thing that contributes to noise is the rocker side to side clearance, not sure of the spec. Loosen the ends and take up some of the excess play, keeping the rocker centered over the valve. Torque the head to specs and readjust valves.

[melville]

I'm with Airbear and came to Airheads after 20+ years of driving old VWs. Both my regular cages nowadays have hydro lifters and it's almost reassuring and familiar when they don't pump up. Then I realize what I driving and I'll take a panicked look at the oil pressure gauge.

The interesting bit to me about Airhead valve tickety sounds is that they reflect back from the road when you're leaned over. VWs don't do that! I can audibly check that the clearance is the same on both sides if the road has both left and right sweepers.

[Spencersomewhere]

Airbear, Valve settings are .004 in and .008 out.
When I was having trouble starting and checked the valves there was NO clearance at all.... but it wasn't as loud either.
I wear earplugs and hear nothing... helmet pretty much the same but without either there is a steady clashing symbol sound at full bore!
From what I am reading the noise I am hearing seems to be the norm.
Thanks to everyone for the input!

[Rob]

Keep an eye on them, and DON'T PULL A STUD!
Also, the female threads on the oil filter cover are easily stripped by owners trying to stop a leak.

These are steel fasteners going into an aluminum block.
I don't know if you had that situation on your BMW autos, or not. Did you own an Isetta?

[SteveD]

If the valves check ok, there's no need to retorque the heads. When and if you do that, 25-26 ft/lbs is a common final torque setting. This is less than book spec but should avoid the "pulled stud" calamity and if it doesn't leak it's adequate.

[Airbear]

Airbear, Valve settings are .004 in and .008 out.
When I was having trouble starting and checked the valves there was NO clearance at all.... but it wasn't as loud either.
I wear earplugs and hear nothing... helmet pretty much the same but without either there is a steady clashing symbol sound at full bore!
From what I am reading the noise I am hearing seems to be the norm.
Thanks to everyone for the input!

Spencer, if you are going to be doing timely maintenance (as all good airhead owners should) you can happily reduce the exhaust valve clearance to 0.15mm (0.006") provided there is no evidence of valve recession over time.

As an experiment you can set the clearances at zero and run the engine for a short time to highlight any other source of noise. A stethoscope (big screwdriver with the handle pressed to your ear) can be probed around the heads, jugs, crankcase, front cover etc. Your "steady clashing symbol sound" might just be the timing chain thrashing around. Finding NO valve clearances indicates that this bike has been poorly maintained, so some careful investigation is advised. With my old dear the chain was so sloppy (noisy too) that it had ground a chunk out of the alloy webbing:



You have to open up the timing chest to see the chain, but some careful listening will provide clues.

[George Ryals]

If you do decide to re-torque the heads, start by loosening each nut a half turn or so then tightening to whatever spec you follow.