New to me 1100RS

[jagarra]

I had been thinking of getting another motorcycle as the Connie was too tall for me and it was a real seat creaser at stop lights. Scoured Craig's list for a number of weeks looking at Beemers first thinking I wanted an RT, but finally settling on a RS. as I mostly take days trips and haven't done any long haul rides A old friend of mine that I knew since high school had one sitting in his garage, he bought it new, low miles 19K, had not been used much at all over the last 4-5 years. When I went over to check it out ,it sat in a corner, hidden behind piles of stuff, covered with a nice coat of dust and a few bugs from his last ride.
It had a battery charger plugged into the din plug on the dash, he cranked it over and after a little bit, it fired. I checked the bike for fit and it wasn't bad, felt a lot more comfortable with my feet almost flat footed and weight wise. So a deal was struck.

Now for the big question:, after I change oil and gear fluids what about the brake fluid and maybe a fuel filter, think they will need servicing after such a lot inactive period. Any good manuals to recommend, I saw the dealer had a service CD, any good? I really prefer a book though.

I have been haunting other forums just picking up bits of info on these models, lot more complicated that our old airheads. Also, what about old brake lines, I heard there were issues with deterioration and they should be changed to new.

no pictures yet, will pick up later this week.

[melville]

Don't forget to get new tires!

Fuel pump and filter can be trouble spots when the FI bikes sit.

[jagarra]

My friend said he put new tires on the bike about 4 years ago, I gave them a poke with my fingernail and they seemed soft still. When I brought my concerns up on the MOA site, the first item they said to absolutely change were the brake lines. Seems they deteriorate over time and create flaps internally which can cause the brakes not to release.
Change all fluids, pay particular attention to tranny fluid contaminates and change fuel filter, clean lines. Figure I will be busy for a few weeks just tidying things up before I get to ride it.

[The Veg]

I forget if that model was in the era of the ABS II. If so, the brake-bleeding procedure is a two-stage affair in which you bleed the circuit from the reservoir to the ABS unit, then the circuit from the ABS unit to the caliper.

Other than that, you should be OK with everything already on your list.

Some R11xx bikes had problem with lean-surging; if you experience that there's all kinds of information online about it including the solutions people used.

[jagarra]

Had a busy bike week. Worked on the RS, got it done and running again yesterday afternoon. I changed all the fluids and filters. Pulled the tank and changed the fuel filter and the vibration pad for the fuel pump which was disintegrating.
Needed a new battery, old one was 10 years old and she didn't have the oomph needed anymore. While I was checking things, pulled the alternator cover and saw the belt was badly cracked, found a replacement from an auto application Dayco 5040240 which goes for about 1/4 the cost from the dealer, bought 2 of them for under $20.00 delivered. Made in Canada. Ordered replacement stainless lines from Spiegler, installed them and bled the system, wasn't too bad, now the ABS light stays off (yahoo). After I put the tank on and put some gas in there, tried to start, no startie, checked for spark, had that. Had visions of pulling tank apart again, but it turned out the quick release fuel coupling wasn't seated fully, preventing fuel from flowing. Just took it for a short spin, to fill the tank and back to the house again. Sure is a different ride than my old Connie. Items to still work on, the neutral switch/light is lazy, meaning it sometimes lights and then not, keeps you from starting bike unless you pull in clutch lever. (Neutral switch provides ground path for light and starter solenoid) Have to disable that side stand interlock switch for the ignition, PIA most times

Speaking of the Connie, I mentioned it was too high for my short legs. A fellow Nevadan saw me complaining and wanting to lower the bike and offered a lowering rocker that he didn't need. Installed that and lowered the rear 2", then took apart the front end and lowered that an inch. Now I can touch the ground almost flat footed, at least the balls of my feet are firmly planted. It sure is a low rider now, I bought another side stand and cut an inch off that so I could park it, center stand can't be used until it is shortened. Had to roll the rear on a 2x4 to get it high enough to lift it on the center stand.

now I'm resting.

[Tri750]

I see your post is from Sept.
But if you have an Owners manual, read it.
There are a couple things you need to know about that are distinct to BMW 's .
Like the clutch free play you need to check regularly when the engine is cold.
The correct way to check the oil level as to not overfill it.
This gen of RS, if it doesn't make a "Ducati dry clutch type noise" now, it probably will. It sounds terrible bit is normal .
The brake flush, stay on this every year and use a Mity Vac or vacume type bleeder rather than pumping the lever or pedal.
Do use the maintenance battery charger regularly and hopefully you bought a sealed battery.
Tire pressures, run them higher than the book says. A starting point is 38F 42R.

[dwerbil]

My '93 had a fuel pump issue and bike wouldn't start. Ended up being the wiring disconnect for the fuel tank. The recommended fix was to replace it with a trailer hitch four wire female/male connectors. Cheap, and that fixed it. That was 20k miles ago. Excellent K-bike forum...http://k11og.org/forum/index.php?sid=3a ... fa87b52920

[Wobbly]

Just now saw this thread, but I've been all over my brother's 1999 R1100S. This is much better bike than an RT (which he also has).

► One thing is to make sure the clutch slave cylinder has the weep hole in it. Without that, any slave cyl leaks flow down the hollow main shaft and destroy the clutch. The entire rear of the bike has to come apart to replace the clutch. This is what happened on my bro's.





Not a fun time.

► His bike also benefited from have an AF-XiED fuel injector manipulator installed. The unit just plugs into the harness between the injectors and the harness. It fools the system into thinking the engine is still cold, so slightly more fuel enters the cylinders. Just enough more to end all the stumbling and hesitation caused by the super-lean mixtures.

[jagarra]

Yeah, I already upgraded the fuel injection nozzles, the cam chain tensioner and did the AFx unit too, running it at 7 pulses, still getting around 45MPG. I just upgraded the HES unit to the new sytle with the good insulation so I am about set for anything that may go wrong (knock on wood). As for comfort I sprung for a Russell Sport seat, works good, still in the break in period. The RS model has a clutch cable, old technology.

[Wobbly]

The RS model has a clutch cable, old technology.

Nothing wrong with cables. A broken cable never mandated disassembling half the motorcycle !

No, what got me about the RT was the wide ratio 5-speed g/b makes sport riding very difficult. And the "sitting in the valley" seat position makes changing weight location impossible.