Koni shock rebuild

[PAS]

After too much research, I ended up using Maxima Racing Shock fluid light 3wt with a V.I. of 14-5.2. Will see how that works out. Koni sells 5wt fluid but they wouldn't give me the specs on it. Since they didnt mfg. it they probably didnt know.

[Zombie Master]

After too much research, I ended up using Maxima Racing Shock fluid light 3wt with a V.I. of 14-5.2. Will see how that works out. Koni sells 5wt fluid but they wouldn't give me the specs on it. Since they didnt mfg. it they probably didnt know.

The Maxima was my alternative choice. The Red line is more expensive except that they sell it in half quarts. I only need 160 mls.

[Zombie Master]

Do I need to remove my rear wheel to take off my shocks? I installed them 36 years ago. I forgot how I did it. I guess I could make some sort of strut to hold up the subframe. Any thoughts?

[Airbear]

Yep, good to remove the rear wheel to reduce the weight you'll be dealing with. The bike will tilt forward so the front wheel is on the floor. Prop up the final drive on something solid and remove the shocks. For safety, tie a rope from the centre stand to the crossover pipe so the bike cannot tip off the stand.

After 36 years (!!!) it might be a good idea to pull the final drive and swingarm to refresh the swingarm pivot bearing grease. If you decide to do this you need to use the rear brake to undo the drive shaft bolts before removing the rear wheel.

And while you're in there you may as well pull the gearbox to clean and grease the input shaft ... and if you do that you may as well check out the clutch and oil pump ...

[Rob Frankham]

My suggestion is to put the bike on the mainstand then insert blocks under the front wheel till the rear is resting on the ground (or alternatively insert packing under the rear wheel which will achieve the same thing. This will take all of the pressure off the shock moutings and they should be very easy to remove (rust and gunge allowing of course). No need to remove the wheel but it's easier to remove the right silencer so that the lower mount can be removed from the stud on the final drive. You can do it without but that involves disconnecting both shocks and lifting the rear suspension to clear the silencer.

Rob

[Zombie Master]

Yep, good to remove the rear wheel to reduce the weight you'll be dealing with. The bike will tilt forward so the front wheel is on the floor. Prop up the final drive on something solid and remove the shocks. For safety, tie a rope from the centre stand to the crossover pipe so the bike cannot tip off the stand.

After 36 years (!!!) it might be a good idea to pull the final drive and swingarm to refresh the swingarm pivot bearing grease. If you decide to do this you need to use the rear brake to undo the drive shaft bolts before removing the rear wheel.

Just did all that.

And while you're in there you may as well pull the gearbox to clean and grease the input shaft ... and if you do that you may as well check out the clutch and oil pump ...

Just did all that too except, I didn't touch the oil pump. Put in a new clutch cable too.

I guess I should change the tires at the same time

[chasbmw]

Anyone know of anybody who can rebuild a set of Konis in the UK?