1984 R100S
I've had a wet underbelly for some time. If I go out and park for a few hours, you would not see any oil on the ground. But after weeks of sitting, there would be two small oil spots on the floor under the rear edge corners of the sump. My engine holds tappet clearance well between checks, and runs well, so I didn't really want to pull the cylinders off just for some weeping oil.
GSPD can certainly come off a bit crusty at times, but he gave me a bit of advice:
He suggested after a clean up, that I stick a needle nose pliers into the seals "like forking a hot dog" and move them around a bit, then shove them back into the crankcase. I had a well known seal conditioner usually used internally, to stop engine leaks in my garage. I use it for improving the condition of rubber parts. I don't know if that helped at all, but I brushed it on the seals a few times before pushing the cleaned seals into the crankcase. I've been riding for months now, and can attest that I have a oil tight machine, after a decade with an oily bottom.
Thanx GSPD! And after a good test, I'd though I'd pass this on. An easy fix you can add to your library of tricks.
leaking pushrod seals
- Zombie Master
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leaking pushrod seals
Any and all disclaimers may apply
Re: leaking pushrod seals
I resemble that remark!Zombie Master wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 5:22 am GSPD can certainly come off a bit crusty at times........
Just for the record, and I've seen many people do this, it's not a good idea to hammer the actual metal pushrod tubes further into the engine to compress the rubber more than originally was intended, even though some dufus designed a tool specifically for this purpose. It might temporarily quell a leak by
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
Re: leaking pushrod seals
Is there a way to get to the pushrods without taking the heads off on an '80 r100?
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Re: leaking pushrod seals
You can just remove the four long head nuts and rockers, slide the whole shootin' match back to be able to get at the seals...don't pull it back enough to clear the piston rings...probably would start with the engine at TDC. To me this method could be fraught with issues. You need to scrupulously clean both mating surfaces (cylinder and engine), apply a small amount of sealant, while getting none in the holes at the top head bolts that allow engine oil to come out, and then carefully reseat everything. Seems like there's something there that will come back to bite you. IMO.
Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
Re: leaking pushrod seals
Yeah, after watching a couple of videos about doing a pushrod seal replacement, it doesn't seem like a good idea to do it alone. it makes more sense to instead do a full seal/o-ring/gasket replacement for the entire block/cylinder/head assy.Kurt in S.A. wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 2:13 pm You can just remove the four long head nuts and rockers, slide the whole shootin' match back to be able to get at the seals...don't pull it back enough to clear the piston rings...probably would start with the engine at TDC. To me this method could be fraught with issues. You need to scrupulously clean both mating surfaces (cylinder and engine), apply a small amount of sealant, while getting none in the holes at the top head bolts that allow engine oil to come out, and then carefully reseat everything. Seems like there's something there that will come back to bite you. IMO.
Kurt in S.A.
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Re: leaking pushrod seals
AMOF the tool was designed to set the rings on the tubes of the early engines. On these models, the rings were not brazed to the tube and needed to be set whenever the cylinder was removed. The tool was not intended to be used on the later type tubes with the brazed on rings... although, it can be done and, as you say, can effect a temporary fix.
Rob
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Re: leaking pushrod seals
Yes
1) set the engine to TDC on the power stroke for the cylinder you want to work on
2) remove the rocker cover
3) loosen all six head nuts in a criss-cross pattern but leave the top and bottom nuts hand tight
4) remove all of the other four nuts and draw both rocker assemblies off the studs. Note. it's a good idea to remove the assemblies carefully and place them aside without diemantling them (unless you need to work on them of course). That way you can just slip them back into place when you've finished whatever you want to do to the pushrods.
5) The pushrods can be simply pulled out from the tubes.
6) When you reassemble,make sure the crank hasn't moved then torque the head nuts to spec in the approved criss-cross pattern.
Rob
Re: leaking pushrod seals
I assumed kmisterk was inquiring on how to get to the pushrod seals, not the actual pushrods.Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 7:26 pmYes
1) set the engine to TDC on the power stroke for the cylinder you want to work on
2) remove the rocker cover
3) loosen all six head nuts in a criss-cross pattern but leave the top and bottom nuts hand tight
4) remove all of the other four nuts and draw both rocker assemblies off the studs. Note. it's a good idea to remove the assemblies carefully and place them aside without diemantling them (unless you need to work on them of course). That way you can just slip them back into place when you've finished whatever you want to do to the pushrods.
5) The pushrods can be simply pulled out from the tubes.
6) When you reassemble,make sure the crank hasn't moved then torque the head nuts to spec in the approved criss-cross pattern.
Rob
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
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Re: leaking pushrod seals
I simply answered the question asked...
Rob
Rob
Re: leaking pushrod seals
I was, but it's good to note that there's a way to get to the pushrods, too. Technically, the "seals" weren't mentioned in my question
Thank you! This is decent. I appreciate the helpRob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri May 21, 2021 7:26 pmYes
1) set the engine to TDC on the power stroke for the cylinder you want to work on
2) remove the rocker cover
3) loosen all six head nuts in a criss-cross pattern but leave the top and bottom nuts hand tight
4) remove all of the other four nuts and draw both rocker assemblies off the studs. Note. it's a good idea to remove the assemblies carefully and place them aside without diemantling them (unless you need to work on them of course). That way you can just slip them back into place when you've finished whatever you want to do to the pushrods.
5) The pushrods can be simply pulled out from the tubes.
6) When you reassemble,make sure the crank hasn't moved then torque the head nuts to spec in the approved criss-cross pattern.
Rob