Clock

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MikeO
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon May 03, 2021 4:53 pm

Clock

Post by MikeO »

Trying to fix my clock on my R100RT 1988, wiring was a mess, pulled out the clock, bulb is burnt out. Will get a new bulb, see what happens. I’m a bit confused there is only 2 spade connections on the back of the clock. How does the back lighting work? My understanding is the green wire with the black tracer is the wire for back lighting. How does this wire hook up to the bulb, back lighting wire for my clock and voltmeter was hanging loose under the dash. This is a new bike to me so I’m not understanding how the wiring works for the clock. Wiring diagram shows RT or red wire is to the positive spade, BR or brown wire is the ground wire to the second spade. What am I missing? Where does the backlighting wire attach to?
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SteveD
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Location: Melbourne, Oz.

Re: Clock

Post by SteveD »

Welcommen.

www.realoem.com

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Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.


1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
jackonz
Posts: 206
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2021 5:29 pm

Re: Clock

Post by jackonz »

MikeO wrote: Fri Jul 01, 2022 8:40 pm Trying to fix my clock on my R100RT 1988, wiring was a mess, pulled out the clock, bulb is burnt out. Will get a new bulb, see what happens. I’m a bit confused there is only 2 spade connections on the back of the clock. How does the back lighting work? My understanding is the green wire with the black tracer is the wire for back lighting. How does this wire hook up to the bulb, back lighting wire for my clock and voltmeter was hanging loose under the dash. This is a new bike to me so I’m not understanding how the wiring works for the clock. Wiring diagram shows RT or red wire is to the positive spade, BR or brown wire is the ground wire to the second spade. What am I missing? Where does the backlighting wire attach to?
As I have recently had mine apart as it is in a pod mounted on the top of the fork leg the lamp has a separate wire running to it, cant recall the colour of the cable but it should be wired in to the same lamp circuit as your existing instrument lights.
Phil J

Nelson NZ.
Rob Frankham
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Location: Scotland UK, 20 miles from civilisation up a dead end road!
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Re: Clock

Post by Rob Frankham »

There should be...

A grey wire with a black tracer. This is the feed for the bulb. This should connect to the centre of the bulb holder
A red wire. This is positive to the clock and comes straight from the battery and connects to a male lucar (spade) connector on the clock
A brown wire. This is ground to both clock and bulb. it should connect to a female lucar (spade) connector riveted to the case of the clock.

There should not be a green/black wire connected to the clock at all. This may be the positive feed to the voltmeter (which should be green/black).

All this presumes a stock motometer clock with a stock wiring loom,

Rob
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MikeO
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2021 4:53 pm

Re: Clock

Post by MikeO »

My mistake the wire is grey with black tracer, how does this wire connect to the bulb, I must be missing that part. I can’t see how that wire connects to the center of the bulb. There is a small hole in the Center of the bulb holder, there is no wire or wire connection.
Thanks for clearing this up
Rob Frankham
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Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:11 pm
Location: Scotland UK, 20 miles from civilisation up a dead end road!
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Re: Clock

Post by Rob Frankham »

MikeO wrote: Sat Jul 02, 2022 10:41 am My mistake the wire is grey with black tracer, how does this wire connect to the bulb, I must be missing that part. I can’t see how that wire connects to the center of the bulb. There is a small hole in the Center of the bulb holder, there is no wire or wire connection.
Thanks for clearing this up
The bulb holder should consist of a brass barrel, a spring, a paxolin (fibre) disc with a hole in it and a brass crimped cebtre contact. The wire pases though a hole in the end of the brass barrel, through the spring and is crimped to the contact which is first inserted through the fibre disc. The spring, the disc and the contact are then inserted into the barrel. When inserted, the bulb centre contact presses against the crimped on contact pushing the disc down and compressing the spring. The wire should be 'permanently' connected to the bulb holder... if it isn't, then the wire has broken off at the centre contact. It can be repaired with a dab of solder.

Rob
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Zombie Master
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Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada

Re: Clock

Post by Zombie Master »

be very careful not to short the clockwires there is no fuse for this and you can burn up your harness and more. Would be good to hook up an in-line switch to cut current to the clock for storage periods when you don't want the battery to discharge due to the parasitic drain of the clock.
Any and all disclaimers may apply
MikeO
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2021 4:53 pm

Re: Clock

Post by MikeO »

My electric knowledge is limited, pulled out my volt meter, backlighting wire was broke also, found the Center contact for the bulb, now I just need to repair that contact. My clock must have some internal damage, not working when attached to power will replace with a VDO clock, when I get bored will open up the clock and see if I can repair it.

Thanks for the help
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SteveD
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Re: Clock

Post by SteveD »

MikeO wrote: Sun Jul 03, 2022 5:30 pm... My clock must have some internal damage, not working when attached to power will replace with a VDO clock, when I get bored will open up the clock and see if I can repair it.
Reportedly the capacitors fail. I believe it's a relative simple job replacing these.
Tantalum 16V 100uf capacitor

The removal and reinstallation of the black bezel that holds the glass might not be so easy...but there is a way.

Pictorial...interestingly, the innards of the motometer in this has a vdo stamp. https://www.flickr.com/photos/getproduc ... 860750305/


Motometer quartz clock.jpg
Motometer quartz clock.jpg (190.46 KiB) Viewed 580 times
This is from a 1976 R90S, probably early mechanical.edited year... :? :roll:
Motometer clock.jpg
Motometer clock.jpg (105.11 KiB) Viewed 583 times
http://velobanjogent.blogspot.com/searc ... eter+clock
from velobanjogent wrote:the dial configuration was a black background with green numerals with the pointer blades for speedometer,tachometer,clock and voltmeter coloured white...this was from 1978 onwards, prior to that, pre 1978, the dials were black background with white dial numerals and the speedometer/tachometer pointer blades were fluorescent red.
The clock movement prior to 1978 was not a quartz movement, but an impulse type.
A quartz clock can easily be identified when running as the pointer for the secondhand advances a second at a time and appears jerky in operation, whereas the impulse clock sweep secondhand smoothly sweeps around in operation
Last edited by SteveD on Tue Jul 05, 2022 6:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.


1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
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gspd
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Re: Clock

Post by gspd »

MikeO wrote: Sun Jul 03, 2022 5:30 pm My electric knowledge is limited, pulled out my volt meter, backlighting wire was broke also, found the Center contact for the bulb, now I just need to repair that contact. My clock must have some internal damage, not working when attached to power will replace with a VDO clock, when I get bored will open up the clock and see if I can repair it.
Sounds a bit disconcerting to me :o

SteveD wrote: Sun Jul 03, 2022 11:38 pm This is from a 1996 R90S, probably early mechanical.
1976 maybe?
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
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