AFTERMARKET PARTS

[gspd]

I usually go with OE BMW parts for my 1990 r100gspd whenever there is a possible quality concern.
After a few bad experiences, I am a bit wary about many 'jobber' parts.

A few days ago I noticed my front brake was dragging.
Could be a sticking caliper piston, or blocked master return hole.

These parts were overhauled about 20 years ago, but I've done about 250,000km since so I figured a refresh would be a good idea. And why not a set of front wheel bearings while I'm at it? Nothing wrong with them except that they have 550,000km. Might as well add a set of fork springs, getting soft after about 200,000km and a few re-shims. My springs were Progressive brand, that come with a lifetime guarantee, but I can't get them replaced on warranty because I no longer have the invoice.
My regular BMW dealer had none of these parts in stock and it would take up to 2 weeks to get everything.
With the end of the riding season rapidly approaching, I could not survive without riding my bike for 2 weeks.

Turns out that Euro Motoelectrics (EME) in Denver, Colorado had everything in stock so I placed my order.
As a bonus, their prices are lower than BMW and they also stock some parts that BMW doesn't carry, like caliper pistons.
OE Brembo rebuild kit and pistons for my Brembo caliper.
OE Magura master cylinder kit for my Magura master cylinder.
OE FAG bearings for my front wheel.
Enduralast 'progressive' fork springs, which I will 'beat test' and see how they hold up with time.

The whole point of this post is that I received the parts at my door in Montreal, Canada, from Colorado, USA, via Fedex, in only 30 hours from when the order was placed. Now that's astounding!!!
Usually it takes a day or two to process an order, and another day or two to clear customs, + normal shipping time.

My hat's off to Jody Laughnin and the crew at EME (and Fedex) for the amazing service!
They've changed my view on getting my parts only through my BMW dealer buddy.

[richard t]

I usually go with OE BMW parts for my 1990 r100gspd whenever there is a possible quality concern.
After a few bad experiences, I am a bit wary about many 'jobber' parts.

A few days ago I noticed my front brake was dragging.
Could be a sticking caliper piston, or blocked master return hole.

These parts were overhauled about 20 years ago, but I've done about 250,000km since so I figured a refresh would be a good idea. And why not a set of front wheel bearings while I'm at it? Nothing wrong with them except that they have 550,000km. Might as well add a set of fork springs, getting soft after about 200,000km and a few re-shims. My springs were Progressive brand, that come with a lifetime guarantee, but I can't get them replaced on warranty because I no longer have the invoice.
My regular BMW dealer had none of these parts in stock and it would take up to 2 weeks to get everything.
With the end of the riding season rapidly approaching, I could not survive without riding my bike for 2 weeks.

Turns out that Euro Motoelectrics (EME) in Denver, Colorado had everything in stock so I placed my order.
As a bonus, their prices are lower than BMW and they also stock some parts that BMW doesn't carry, like caliper pistons.
OE Brembo rebuild kit and pistons for my Brembo caliper.
OE Magura master cylinder kit for my Magura master cylinder.
OE FAG bearings for my front wheel.
Enduralast 'progressive' fork springs, which I will 'beat test' and see how they hold up with time.

The whole point of this post is that I received the parts at my door in Montreal, Canada, from Colorado, USA, via Fedex, in only 30 hours from when the order was placed. Now that's astounding!!!
Usually it takes a day or two to process an order, and another day or two to clear customs, + normal shipping time.

My hat's off to Jody Laughnin and the crew at EME (and Fedex) for the amazing service!
They've changed my view on getting my parts only through my BMW dealer buddy.

I've had good service from them, also Tom Cutter has quick turn around time too

[SteveD]

EME, Motorworks & Motobins have always provided great service. Of course, here in Oz, the postage can be a killer! Even so, a package of small parts can get to me from the UK in anything from 3-14 days! Always cheaper than local.
If I need it tomorrow I'll try my local independent shop or overnight postage from Munich Motorcycles in Perth in Western Oz.
Rarely do I buy from a stealership...and there's one under construction just 3kms from me.

[melville]

Yes, I'm a recent convert to EME as well. Hansen's is still a great source and I use them when I can, but they're only doing one parts order a week on Friday for Wednesday receipt.

[gspd]

So...
My dragging front brake was a tiny piece of crap partially obstructing the return hole in the master cylinder.
Not sure where it came from. I suspected that because I noticed my brake lever was a getting bit firmer than usual during my previous rides. The cylinder bore was otherwise spotlessly clean inside, no visible wear and zero corrosion, probably because the brake fluid was changed annually since the bike was new. I installed the new piston/seal kit while it was apart.

The 32 year old pistons in my Brembo front caliper are made of some type of composite material and were showing some very slight spider-web type cracks around their edge so I was happy to replace them and their seals.

I did a few hundred kms to settle my new Enduralast fork springs. They were a bit on the soft side to my liking.
I installed .5 inch spacers to adjust the sag. Now they feel perfect. Fork fluid has been also changed annually since new.

New sealed roller front wheel bearings made no noticeable difference, but $40 for peace of mind is worth it.
They had 550,000 km on them and they can't last forever. Or can they?

While I was at it, I threw on a new Brembo disc and new EBC FA77 pads which I always have spares of on the shelf.

I could have just blown the piece of crap out of the master cylinder, changed the pads, and gone on my merry way.
Everything else would have been fine for a long while as it was,
but my ol' bike literally runs and feels better than when it was brand new now.
As always, what it really wanted was a big cash transfusion. (sigh)

[Rob Frankham]

I did a few hundred kms to settle my new Enduralast fork springs. They were a bit on the soft side to my liking.
I installed .5 inch spacers to adjust the sag. Now they feel perfect. Fork fluid has been also changed annually since new.

As a matter of interest, putting a spacer in the forks doesn't affect the spring rate and it doesn't affect the damping, it merely lifts the handlebars by the width of the spacer (after taking into account angularity of course). The only practical ways to change the spring rate of the forks are to:-

1) Change the springs.

2) Add spring restrictors (i.e. block the movement of some of the coils of the spring) or

3) Add air springing.

Rob

[gspd]

As a matter of interest, putting a spacer in the forks doesn't affect the spring rate and it doesn't affect the damping, it merely lifts the handlebars by the width of the spacer (after taking into account angularity of course). The only practical ways to change the spring rate of the forks are to:-
1) Change the springs.
2) Add spring restrictors (i.e. block the movement of some of the coils of the spring) or
3) Add air springing.

When I said "They were a bit on the soft side to my liking." I was referring to sag.
I know how my bike should feel on everything from mildly rippled pavement to hard crash landings and as far as I can tell, the Enduralast spring rate is dead on.

My GS still has its OE Marzocchi relatively primitive (by today's standards) long travel forks.
They have no external preload or damping adjusters.
One leg controls compression damping and the other controls rebound damping.
Replacing springs has no effect on damping.
Damping can only be 'adjusted' by varying the fluid viscosity or by internal re-valving.
Pre-load (sag) can only be adjusted by shimming. (or custom made springs, which is not practical)

If these Enduralast springs mimic the my last three pairs of Progressive brand springs, to maintain their proper 'sag' they'll need regular .5" re-shimming at about 50,000km intervals and replacing (due to coil binding on full compression) at about 150 to 200,000km. Time will tell.

[Seth]

to GSPD

my thoughts about spring rate and dampening...
although spring rate doesn't affect dampening, generally stiffer springs may increase the need for additional rebound dampening.
the stiffer spring rate will push the "original" rebound dampening faster than the softer spring.
since your bike has each fork leg handling rebound from compression, have you ever tried 2 different weight fluids with the rebound leg getting higher viscosity? No effect on compression dampening. Maybe the spring stiffness difference does not require this change.

As a side note... I have a 2009 Honda Civic EX with Civic Si rear springs and Koni dampeners.
The adjustment on the Konis are rebound only. I have the fronts set at 1 and the rears at 2 to compensate for the rear spring change.
And an Si front sway-bar to balance the car. Great combination.

[gspd]

to GSPD

my thoughts about spring rate and dampening...
although spring rate doesn't affect dampening, generally stiffer springs may increase the need for additional rebound dampening.
the stiffer spring rate will push the "original" rebound dampening faster than the softer spring.
since your bike has each fork leg handling rebound from compression, have you ever tried 2 different weight fluids with the rebound leg getting higher viscosity? No effect on compression dampening. Maybe the spring stiffness difference does not require this change.

As a side note... I have a 2009 Honda Civic EX with Civic Si rear springs and Koni dampeners.
The adjustment on the Konis are rebound only. I have the fronts set at 1 and the rears at 2 to compensate for the rear spring change.
And an Si front sway-bar to balance the car. Great combination.

All valid points Seth.
We seem to be on the same page.
My BMW owner's manual said to use Marzocchi fork oil, but didn't mention a specific viscosity.
At the time nobody in North America carried Marzocchi oil, so on the recommendation of my BMW rep, I (we) used BMW, Belray, Motul or any other name brand fork oil that was readily available.

3 decades ago, during my first few years of ownership, I experimented with every possible viscosity and level of fork oil. After a lot of trial and error, I determined that what worked best for me was 5W fork oil at the recommended level for both sides and I've stuck with that since. I've also exclusively used 5W in many dozens of other GS's to everyone's satisfaction. No complaints, ever.

The OE fork springs were crap. Very short springs with long (6 inch?) spacers on top. I think mine were replaced two or three times during my initial 3 year unlimited mileage warranty.
Then Progressive came out with replacement full length springs that eliminated the long spacers.
100% improvement over stock. But they still sag out beyond re-shimming and need to be replaced every 150 to 200,000km.
Don't get me wrong, they still function very well as far as ride, comfort and control are concerned, but the bike ends up riding a lot lower than I like. This hinders ground clearance over obstacles and easy wheelies with cushy landings. Now, when I spot my fork boots getting 'floppy' when looking down at speed on rough surfaces, I know it's about to be re-shim time.