Thanks for that Steve - just bought one from an online medical supplies company for a tenner. He did ask what size I wanted though, and when I seemed unsure he asked what age were the patients I'd be inserting the endotrachaeal tubes into...SteveD wrote:When working in the headlight, I find this tool invaluable.
It's called a MacGills forcep. If you have any nurses or surgeons as mates....maybe a local tool shop has something similar.
Newbie with electrical headache
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
"Never argue with a fool, onlookers might not be able to tell the difference." Samuel Clemens
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- Airbear
- Posts: 2887
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- Location: Oz, lower right hand side, in a bit, just over the lumpy part.
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
Welcome Daniel. That does look like the perfect tool; even better than the curved haemostats I use, which tend to mutilate the soft insulating covers. I can imagine you explaining to the supplier that the patient is thirty something years old and that you are extracting wires from her brain.
Looking forward to progress reports as you boldly go ...
Here's what you are likely to find under the rat's nest, with a crappy view of the underside of the board. I'd really appreciate a better pic of the underside, if anyone pulls one out at some stage.
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I recommend that you take lots of photos as you go, especially the ignition switch and indicator relay wiring and so on. You'll appreciate it when reassembling.
ps: My vote is that most of your problem is to do with the fuse at the green end of the connector board. I think those pesky german fuses and holders turn into diodes (or some other fekkin' electronic magic thing) when they reach menopause.
Looking forward to progress reports as you boldly go ...
Here's what you are likely to find under the rat's nest, with a crappy view of the underside of the board. I'd really appreciate a better pic of the underside, if anyone pulls one out at some stage.
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I recommend that you take lots of photos as you go, especially the ignition switch and indicator relay wiring and so on. You'll appreciate it when reassembling.
ps: My vote is that most of your problem is to do with the fuse at the green end of the connector board. I think those pesky german fuses and holders turn into diodes (or some other fekkin' electronic magic thing) when they reach menopause.
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
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Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
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Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
I know what you use those hemostats for, Charlie! You're such a DAWG! 
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- Airbear
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- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:02 am
- Location: Oz, lower right hand side, in a bit, just over the lumpy part.
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
Sputter!. Yeah, ok Scot. So they have a lot of uses. The bloke that gave me these nice curved haemostats was a theatre technician at a local private hospital. I met him when I came to after surgery. He said, "Gidday, I'm Tim. You'll be feeling the effects of some very nice drugs. Hey, do you want a roach clip?" Perhaps there is something about my appearance that leads people to jump to hasty conclusions about my proclivities.Scot wrote:I know what you use those hemostats for, Charlie! You're such a DAWG!
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
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Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
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Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
- George Ryals
- Posts: 510
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:22 am
- Location: Stone Mountain, GA
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
You can also get the foreceps in a non-conductive configuration. Either coated or made of non-conductive material. Pretty handy if you forget to disconnect all wires from the battery negative post before probing.
Smile it's contagious!
'74 R90S, '67 /2 Conv w/sc, '66 R50/2
'74 Harley FXE, '72 Harley FLH w/HD sc
'69 BSA 441 Victor Special, '74 R90/6 Basket case
'85 R80RT wreck for parts
'74 R90S, '67 /2 Conv w/sc, '66 R50/2
'74 Harley FXE, '72 Harley FLH w/HD sc
'69 BSA 441 Victor Special, '74 R90/6 Basket case
'85 R80RT wreck for parts
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
Hey newbie,
I am pretty new to this forum myself. I had some electrical problems with my /5. I would do as suggested - disconnect everything and reconnect with the diagrams available. Since mine had brittle wires, I just took everyone's advice and installed a brand new harness. It took some time, but was well worth it. These guys were great and if you get in a pinch they will help and I will too if I can. Post your results or if you get at a standstill.
I am pretty new to this forum myself. I had some electrical problems with my /5. I would do as suggested - disconnect everything and reconnect with the diagrams available. Since mine had brittle wires, I just took everyone's advice and installed a brand new harness. It took some time, but was well worth it. These guys were great and if you get in a pinch they will help and I will too if I can. Post your results or if you get at a standstill.
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
Just a quick update.
Checked and all the circuit board stuff and it was all OK - found that a poor connection on the indicator relay was all that was stopping the indicators from working. Checked all the starting circuit and it looks like the starter relay is not working - managed to get the starter to turn over by shorting a couple of the contacts, so new relay ordered. Lesson learned is that just because all the functions of the right-hand switchgear were dead doesn't actually mean that the fault lies with the right-hand switchgear!
Neutral switch is u/s though and it looks like the bike's assembled around it - how easy are they to remove?
Checked and all the circuit board stuff and it was all OK - found that a poor connection on the indicator relay was all that was stopping the indicators from working. Checked all the starting circuit and it looks like the starter relay is not working - managed to get the starter to turn over by shorting a couple of the contacts, so new relay ordered. Lesson learned is that just because all the functions of the right-hand switchgear were dead doesn't actually mean that the fault lies with the right-hand switchgear!
Neutral switch is u/s though and it looks like the bike's assembled around it - how easy are they to remove?
"Never argue with a fool, onlookers might not be able to tell the difference." Samuel Clemens
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
Daniel
I had a bad day once trying to get the bike started after a wash down. After an hour of fruitless searching in the headlight for faulty fuses etc., I noticed the neutral light was not working. I traced the wires back from the neutral switch (under gearbox) and found the two pin connector had come apart after my wash down. Plugged it back in and away she went.
Make sure your switch is plugged and all wires to the neutral light are plugged. It may be as simple as that.
Regards
Steve from Dubbo
Not sure if is the same with the 74 R90S but on my 78 R100RS, if the neutral light does not work then the bike will not start. It may be a peculiarity to the 78 models, but it may also be an issue with older models.symptoms are that when the key's turned there's no alternator or neutral light (but there is an oil light)
I had a bad day once trying to get the bike started after a wash down. After an hour of fruitless searching in the headlight for faulty fuses etc., I noticed the neutral light was not working. I traced the wires back from the neutral switch (under gearbox) and found the two pin connector had come apart after my wash down. Plugged it back in and away she went.
Make sure your switch is plugged and all wires to the neutral light are plugged. It may be as simple as that.
Regards
Steve from Dubbo
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R100RS to R100S Conversion
Re: Newbie with electrical headache
On my 1993 R100RT the neutral switch and the clutch switch work the same way one or the other must be in the start position. If the clutch is pulled in the motor will start with the transmission in gear. If the transmission is in neutral and the clutch released the motor will start. It will also start with the transmission in neutral and the clutch pulled in.
Guy
Guy