Changing fork oil

[Jon K]

As ever, apologies if this has been covered before...

(R100, 1982)

My Haynes manual tells me to drain the fork oil and pump the forks to get the last of it out, then replace the drain plugs before removing the filler plugs and putting the new oil in. But, if I remove the filler plugs whilst the drain plugs are still out, loads more of the old oil pours out - presumably because the vacuum is released.

So, I don't understand why Haynes would give that procedure. Can anyone enlighten me?

Also, the level check with a 5mm welding rod: the only welding rod I've got is about 2mm. Does it have to be 5?

Cheers,

Jon

[barryh]

It's usual for any oil change to always remove the filler plug first. Haynes may be thinking that to leave the filler plugs in helps the pumping action to compress air inside the forks and expel the oil. But to replace the drain plugs before removing the filler plugs is nonsense.

[Rob Frankham]

As ever, apologies if this has been covered before...

(R100, 1982)

My Haynes manual tells me to drain the fork oil and pump the forks to get the last of it out, then replace the drain plugs before removing the filler plugs and putting the new oil in. But, if I remove the filler plugs whilst the drain plugs are still out, loads more of the old oil pours out - presumably because the vacuum is released.

So, I don't understand why Haynes would give that procedure. Can anyone enlighten me?

Also, the level check with a 5mm welding rod: the only welding rod I've got is about 2mm. Does it have to be 5?

Cheers,

Jon

1) As Barry said

2) it won't make a blind bit of difference provided that you can be sure the rod stays straight

Rob

[Jon K]

Thanks Barry and Rob

[barryh]

I use the dipstick out of my car to check fork oil level. I find it's easier to see the clean oil level on the flat hatched portion of a proper dip stick than it is on a welding rod.