Brake hoses being removed

[grant81rs]

G'day fellas,

The time is near my friends and I mean near as in TONIGHT I hope , unless other stuff raises its ugly head.

I have new braided SS front and rear brake lines sitting on my shed bench to replace my original 30 year old ones, I know I should of done it years ago but I just haven't so now it is time.........................BUT WTF DO I DO

I replace the fluid yearly so bleeding brakes is not a problem, talented isn't one!!, It's the whole removal of the lines and getting that air everywhere in the system is starting to freak me out a little

I had a look at "Snowbums" tech pages and had a "little" read and got more worried than when I started, so does anyone have any links or info or for that matter any personal tips on doing this change over of brake hoses...

Your help is once again needed and as always the info sent back by you bloke will get me over this little hickup and the ole RS out on the road again in no time.....

have a good one

[ME 109]

Jolly good grant! Did you get a braided line from the front brake lever to the splitter under the tank as well?

Just whip the 'ol ones off, wack on the new ones and pump em up and if you have persistent sponge (no cream) you may need to take the calipers off (brake lines attached) and turn them upside down and down side up and continue to bleed. You'll get the air out.
OR, reverse bleed them as SteveD is fond of.

[grant81rs]

Jolly good grant! Did you get a braided line from the front brake lever to the splitter under the tank as well? .

No I bloody why the hell didn't I think of that before I started this didn't but will order one tommorow and now hold off the front change over until it arrives, the rear will happen soon.
Sounds all pretty straight forward Jeff, with the usual amount of #$#@&^% and %$%$@& needed.....

[SteveD]

Did you get the crush washers yet?

Anyhow, the rear isn't too hard to do and good practice huh! email sent to home.

Don't get any brake fluid on the paint...dot 4 is still the go I think.

[Major Softie]

Yeah, it's really very easy, just a few things to remember:

1. Keep the fluid off the paint.

2. Use new crush washers.

3. Use DOT 4 fluid, and have way more than you think you'll need.

4. When starting with an empty system, it takes a REALLY long time (lots and lots of squeezes) to get the system filled back up with fluid. So, if you don't have a pressure or vacuum bleeder, don't get discouraged if it seems like it's taking inordinately long.

5. Once you have pressure, it's just the kind of bleeding you're used to. As above, don't be afraid to remove calipers and move them around if that's what it takes to get the last bit of air out. Just remember to put something hard between the pads to take the place of the disc.


6. And, oh yeah, keep the fluid off the paint.

[Dave Backmarker]

Grant,
I'm sure you know this, but if you can find a flare tool wrench, it makes loosening the old lines much easier. Also the flare tool wrench minimizes damage to the bleed screws as you loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten during the bleeding process.

DaveM
1975 R90S
2000 R1100RT

[moosehead]

This is a timely thread as I have been doing the same on my RS. PO gave me new SS line for rear brake so, as I have been doing a rebuild on the front M/C, thought I'd put the new line on the rear...

Aaaa@#$*&^$ ***gggh.....the language coming from the man cave was not pleasant..my wife politley reminded me that "patience is a virtue...and bringing god into the equation in such a manner would not help the cause"....Geez, they just don't get it do they? O well, after a secret cigar and wee dram of god's own, I gave up.

I submit to the ancient Tuetonic goddess. Told her I would retract, recant, all my unworthy remarks on her heritage and lie prone on the bed of nails for the night in hopes that she would burp up her champagne bubbles overnight.

If not, then I'll be trying some new techniques you gents are suggesting.

Geez, Ive bled brakes before but never been in this position before...o well..a new learning experience in an all too thick "Book of KNowledge" of the legendary motorcycles of Germany.

Good luck Grant. If it goes smooth as silk I'll be on the beacon.

[SteveD]

Moosey, with the system empty, fill it via a syringe from the caliper end. Leave the reservoir cap loose. You'll need a 60ml catheter tip syringe and tubing to fit. When pushing on the syringe, ensure the tubing isn't pushed off, as you'll have fluid everywhere. Just hold it firm.

Works first time, every time. Your wife, and you, will be much happier. No need to miss out on the wee dram though.

It's much easier with the wheel off, as that allows you to comfortably move the caliper, and install the new line. In Grants case the new ss line extends from the reservoir to the caliper replacing the pipe. It's also a good opportunity to clean up around the rear master cylinder, and giving the switch a good blast of electrical cleaner.

[Deleted User 62]

This is a timely thread as I have been doing the same on my RS. PO gave me new SS line for rear brake so, as I have been doing a rebuild on the front M/C, thought I'd put the new line on the rear...

Aaaa@#$*&^$ ***gggh.....the language coming from the man cave was not pleasant..my wife politley reminded me that "patience is a virtue...and bringing god into the equation in such a manner would not help the cause"....Geez, they just don't get it do they? O well, after a secret cigar and wee dram of god's own, I gave up.

I submit to the ancient Tuetonic goddess. Told her I would retract, recant, all my unworthy remarks on her heritage and lie prone on the bed of nails for the night in hopes that she would burp up her champagne bubbles overnight.

If not, then I'll be trying some new techniques you gents are suggesting.

Geez, Ive bled brakes before but never been in this position before...o well..a new learning experience in an all too thick "Book of KNowledge" of the legendary motorcycles of Germany.

Good luck Grant. If it goes smooth as silk I'll be on the beacon.

Another possibility, did you clean the return hole in the master cylinder? On some models, you take the master cylinder cap off and look down inside you will see two small holes in top of the bore. If you don't want to take it all apart again, you can clean these holes by gently poking a wooden toothpick in them.

[Steve78RS]

Grant

You're getting lots of good advice mate.

I've just installed my rear SS hose and essentially did it as Steve has suggested. Pumped a large syringe full of Dot 4 from the caliper through to the res. Leave the bike on its side stand to help the bubbles to move on through. I got pressure straight away with that method. You can bleed as per the manual once you have that initial pressure. I invested in a cheap vacuum pump that helps the bleed.

The under tank front MC bleed is a little different. I found that even after pumping fluid from the calipers up into the MC and res I couln't get any pressure in the system. The reason is that a pocket of air gets trapped in the MC bore because of the slight angle on the frame. The bubbles get caught at the front end of the MC bore. What I do is unscrew the large hose strap that holds the MC to the frame and tip the MC up from the back while actuating the front brake. If you have the lid off the res, you will be surprised how much air bubbles through into the res. Be careful while doing this. The bubbles and liquid can shoot out the top if you get a little carried away. It works perfectly every time.

BTW. The copper pipes from the MC to the fairing should be fine. I wouldn't bother replacing them with SS hoses.

Cheers mate.

Steve from Dubbo