Bean can once more; arghhh!

[Roadrocket]

Hello again

I realised that I didn't mark the rotors position relative to the drive dog! Very stupid! Can somebody help me out?

Otto in Denmark

[John Falconer]

What have you taken apart?

If you just unmounted the bean can then no sweat - the dog is offset and can only go back one way. Even if you've done more than that there are limits to reassembly so it isn't too hard to figure out.

[dougie]

Hello again
I realised that I didn't mark the rotors position relative to the drive dog! Very stupid! Can somebody help me out?
Otto in Denmark

What bike is it???
Points can or electronic???

[Roadrocket]

Hi
I made a more lengthy post that didn't make it to the board somehow. It's a 1986 R80 (bitsa, but the engine is stock). I have taken out the rotor and the plate with the hall sensor, which is the culprit (I hope). I realised later that since I haven't taken the drive out, the spindle with the spring pins can only go in two ways, and I can make out from photos I took which one. The spindle has the groove for the little pin, so by consequence, the rotor must be inserted right, right? So I guess I'm off the hook. But it would be nice to know how the rotor is fixed in relation to the drive anyway. Now I just have to find a hall sensor...

Otto in Denmark

[Ken in Oklahoma]

. . . I made a more lengthy post that didn't make it to the board somehow . . .

Welcome to Boxerworks Otto.

I'm one of the moderators here and I just approved the post you're talking about. Sorry about the delay. Unfortunately that's one of the costs of a spam free forum. I see a lot of spam posts; I'd say at least five to one spam posts vs new member posts. (In case you're wondering, that's how it's done. A moderator logs on to Boxerworks and any new poster's submittal is highlighted. A moderator approves the post and poster and only then does the post appear.) Your earlier post apparently took an extra bit of time to get spotted and approved.

But now you're here and welcome.

By the way, your moniker "Roadrocket"; Is that an allusion to a BSA Road Rocket? I'm a big fan of Brit bikes and have some I hope to restore before I don't care any more. The first one will be a '57 Triumph Thunderbird that belonged to my dad and which he more or less turned over to me when I was a young man. Later I acquired a '61 BSA A10 Spitfire Scrambler, which as you may know is a Road Rocket without lights, and with high pipes and close ratio transmission. I also have a '78 Triumph Bonneville with low miles that was running when I refocused my motorcycle lust onto airheads.



Ken

[Roadrocket]

Thanks Ken!

Yes Roadrocket is indeed taken from tht handsome BSA model. I am slowly building a Road Rocket replica from my bitsa A10, and is nearly there exept from the tank and the brakes. You have some fine bikes; the only T-bird I have is my cat, named after your bike! I love my Boxer dearly, and must have it back in form PDQ, but that hall sensor is really hard to come by, apparantly. Given the amount of grief over it, you should think stocks were compiled at strategic spots around the globe.

Otto

[SteveD]

Depending on how much you want to pay Otto, a newish alternative can be found at http://www.motoelekt.com/ignition.htm.

Second hand rebuilt ones are seldom less than US$250, and ones for sale that aren't rebuilt are usually at least US$150.

And welcome.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

Thanks Ken!

Yes Roadrocket is indeed taken from tht handsome BSA model. I am slowly building a Road Rocket replica from my bitsa A10, and is nearly there exept from the tank and the brakes. You have some fine bikes; the only T-bird I have is my cat, named after your bike! I love my Boxer dearly, and must have it back in form PDQ, but that hall sensor is really hard to come by, apparantly. Given the amount of grief over it, you should think stocks were compiled at strategic spots around the globe.

You know, there is an alternative to your hall type "bean can". During the '79 and '80 model years (I think) a then new bean can ignition with points was introduced, replacing the older points type ignition. It's my understanding that the points type bean can and your hall effect bean can are interchangeable. You might be able to find a used points type bean can at a significantly less cost than a hall effect type. Basically, if you went to the points type, you wouldn't use your current ignition module. Simply you would wire the bean can like any of the earlier ignitions.

With your present hall effect bean can, if it's the sensor itself that goes bad, there are sensors available other than through BMW. Unfortunately I don't recall where, but I believe there is a web page somewhere that addresses how to do the repair job and where to get the sensors. Another article addressed the modification of the "can" to install a spare sensor 180 degrees away from the stock one. The idea is that when a hall sensor fails, you can pull off the wire to the ignition module and put it on the spare sensor. Probably you would have to tweak the timing since it would seem difficult to locate the spare sensor exactly 180 degrees away from the original.


Ken

[Ken in Oklahoma]

You know, there is an alternative to your hall type "bean can". During the '79 and '80 model years (I think) a then new bean can ignition with points was introduced, replacing the older points type ignition. It's my understanding that the points type bean can and your hall effect bean can are interchangeable. You might be able to find a used points type bean can at a significantly less cost than a hall effect type. Basically, if you went to the points type, you wouldn't use your current ignition module. Simply you would wire the bean can like any of the earlier ignitions.

With your present hall effect bean can, if it's the sensor itself that goes bad, there are sensors available other than through BMW. Unfortunately I don't recall where, but I believe there is a web page somewhere that addresses how to do the repair job and where to get the sensors. Another article addressed the modification of the "can" to install a spare sensor 180 degrees away from the stock one. The idea is that when a hall sensor fails, you can pull off the wire to the ignition module and put it on the spare sensor. Probably you would have to tweak the timing since it would seem difficult to locate the spare sensor exactly 180 degrees away from the original.

Here's one article: http://www.largiader.com/articles/ignition/


This is a wonderful web site and a source for a lot of good information.


Ken

[Ken in Oklahoma]

Here's one article: http://www.largiader.com/articles/ignition/

Here's another article, this one about repairing the ignition. I still haven't found the article about modifying the bean can for that second hall sensor though.


http://www.deathstar.org/~flash/ig_trig.html

Ken