Engine case finish

[DanielMc]

Rub 'n 'buff in "Silver Leaf".

Make-up for airheads...

[SteveD]

Something I kept...

POLISHING:
I think you are skipping a few steps.
If you want 'showbike' results, first file off the numbers and casting lines
Rough parts like your yoke then need to be hand sanded,
Start with dry 180 to get rid of the rough stuff.
when the surface looks all even,
progress to 280, then 320.
Then wet sand with 400, then 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000.
Now it's ready for the polishing wheel.

If you just want the yoke to look good, but not 'showy-shiny',
use rough steel wool to start, then medium, then fine.
That should make it look pretty good.

......

'Scotchbrites'.
They come in all types of different 'grits'.
You could also try medium to coarse steel wool.
You have to put more elbow grease (or bead blasting) into the bare metal,
and only then do you apply the 'gspd process'.
It was not developed to camouflage corrosion,
it is only to fill the valleys in the casting while leaving the peaks bare metal.
The idea is that the end product becomes easy to maintain but DOES NOT look painted.

Melville, some of your own work...

.... took a couple of hours using simple green, brakleen, ScotchBrite both without and with aluminium paint.
The paint is sparsely sprayed onto the scotchbrite, not directly onto the surface.




Then there's Rub n' Buff, where the important word to understand is "sparse". Apply sparsely like it's the last tube left in the world. It'll give a better look when finished. A little goes a looong way. You'll be surprised.

[dwerbil]

I used Mothers for a while years ago. Got sick and tired of all the rubbing and rubbing and ...........

[x1Buellist]

Thanks everyone, I will be trying out a couple of these products.

[dwerbil]

I think I found the Eagle One product . Ist it Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel cleaner?

Yep, that's the one. Just use a bit of caution with using it. I never sprayed directly on the parts, just into a plastic cup or the like, then used a paint brush to apply. Let it do its work for about five minutes then rinse and srub a bit with steel wool. Rinse again.

[bbelk]

I have found that If I cover the whole thing in West Texas dust and then soak myself in a hot spring it all looks fine to me.

[x1Buellist]

[quote="bbelk"]I have found that If I cover the whole thing in West Texas dust and then soak myself in a hot spring it all looks fine to me.

Haha awesome. It looks like you have it pretty much figured out.

[SteveD]

Thanks everyone, I will be trying out a couple of these products.

Here's a previous thread re: Rub n" Buff.

http://boxerworks.com/forum2/viewtopic. ... +n%27+buff

[BMWARCHER]

When I disassembled the bike for powder coating the frame, cleaned the engine, trans and rear end with laquer thinner and painted it with this:

DUPLICOLOR 1650 CAST ALUMINUM ENGINE PAINT
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/enginePaint/

Been six years and no discoloring or peeling.

[Roy Gavin]

As an aside Rub n Buff also comes in black which is just as good on old weathered and or scratched paint or plastic, freshens it up a treat without loosing the patina of a well used old bike.