First time poster, and was hoping I could get an opinion

[fck]

I have a 1974 r90/6 transition model with 75 controls and no kick start. I recently replaced the fork brace with an after market brace so I can get a little bit bigger tire under the front fender. I would like to know the dimensions that other people have gotten away with tucking under that fender so that I would not inadvertently buy one that is too big. I know that tire brands are controversial as oil threads to I am afraid to spark a flame war However, if you would like to suggest a brand you sure won't hurt my feelings. I am no acrobatic rider, more of a mileage rider that wants to get a lot of miles out of a tire.

Thanks for any responses in advance.

[Seth]

If you are a mileage, non-acrobatic rider, why do you want a larger front tire. It will slow down steering response as it raises the front end increasing trail and the added weight increases gyroscopic force. Also, if you really make a tire wider, when you lean over in a turn, you may be lifting the bike which increases effort. Still, you've got fairly narrow wheels, so wider tires get pulled in at the bead. The stock 3.25 or 100/90 tire is perfect and should be matched with a 4.00 or 110/90 rear. So the only reason is if you think it looks better.

I probably ride a bit harder than you do and like the Michelin Pilot Activ or Bridgestone BT-45, but lots of people who ride like you really like the Bridgestone S11 Spitfire, which is probably a good choice.

[CVA-42]

A 3.50 or 100 (metric) are the widest front tires I have personally run on airheads. Bear in mind, however, that the "same size" tires can actually vary somewhat in width among different manufacturers. I'm not touching the brand recommendation part...

[fck]

If you are a mileage, non-acrobatic rider, why do you want a larger front tire. It will slow down steering response as it raises the front end increasing trail and the added weight increases gyroscopic force. Also, if you really make a tire wider, when you lean over in a turn, you may be lifting the bike which increases effort. Still, you've got fairly narrow wheels, so wider tires get pulled in at the bead. The stock 3.25 or 100/90 tire is perfect and should be matched with a 4.00 or 110/90 rear. So the only reason is if you think it looks better.

I probably ride a bit harder than you do and like the Michelin Pilot Activ or Bridgestone BT-45, but lots of people who ride like you really like the Bridgestone S11 Spitfire, which is probably a good choice.

I ride on the parkway and some of the expansion joints are rather "crater like". I am so worried that a small tire like that is really going to damage my rim. I try to slow down but they are brutal. Hence, a bigger tire may have more protection for me.

[moonbeamerll]

About your subject line: " . . . hoping I could get an opinion." One reason I keep coming back to this forum is that you might not always get an answer but you can always count on getting an opinion!

[fck]

I'll try a 3.50 and see how that works. Hopefully my aluminum wheels may experience a bit let bashing.

[the quinner]

I'll try a 3.50 and see how that works. Hopefully my aluminum wheels may experience a bit let bashing.

A tire that is too wide will not protect your rims any better than the stock size...perhaps less. Think of the sidewall and how it absorbs the forces. An oversized tire will have a sidewall profile that splays...like: / \ The stock size sidewall will be more upright...to operate as it was designed...like: | | Bias ply tires have very stiff sidewalls (relative to radials) which are designed to be part of the suspension.

Then there is rim size...you have a 1.85" (WM2) front rim (assuming stock). Before you select a tire, check the manufacturer's rim recommendations. You'll find very few (if any) 3.5" tires that are recommended for 1.85" rims. They'll be harder to mount...harder to break the bead on...harder to do roadside repairs...etc.

I've mounted a LOT of tires...whenever I'm struggling to get a wide tire onto a narrow rim with my Coats tire changer, I can't help but think how much worse it would be with tire irons...in the pouring rain...at midnight...in panther country (I'd say cougar country, but I think these days that's TGIF's down by the mall ).

Rather than a wider tire, I'd suggest being hyper-aware of your tire pressures (and watch where you're riding!). Keep a bicycle pump with built-in gauge near your bike...it's faster and just as easy as firing up a compressor. I used to do a lot of mountain biking with a friend. He liked soft tires, I liked tight tires...he was always getting pinch flats, I rarely got flats. Remember, just like the flattest part of a puddle is the top...the softest part of a tire is the bottom...if you punch through the soft, your rim is next in line.

[Zombie Master]

synthetic.

[fck]

Ok. So the current thinking is that I should keep the regular tire that I have been running on the front. By that I mean the stock tire that they call for. I appreciate the replies! I guess I spent that money for a larger fork brace was a waste

[mattcfish]

Ok. So the current thinking is that I should keep the regular tire that I have been running on the front. By that I mean the stock tire that they call for. I appreciate the replies! I guess I spent that money for a larger fork brace was a waste

Not a waste. Actually many after market fork braces will improve handleing and steering, even on non-acrobatic rides. The original brace was way too flexible. Which one are you using? The key is to make sure your forks are aligned properly after installation. A good test for this (although not definative) is to see if you can push the front axle in with minimal effort.