I don't know what model you are referring to, but you may be on the right track. First I think that it would be to accommodate being started either way. When you turn the ignition on the bike doesn't know which way it will be started,so I would say the default would be kick start. When you hit the button to engage the starter, more current goes to starter motor, so I would expect a different circuit tapped off the starter circuit is used to amplify power to coils.
1974 R90/6 built 9/73
1987 BMW K75S
1994 BMW R1100RS
1964 T100SR Triumph
1986 Honda XL600R
In the event of the ignition being left on without starting the electronic black box has a time delay cut out to prevent overheating. Is the delay longer on the kick start version to give the rider time to get his act together ?
Yeah gspd was one with a positive view on the kicker, but I think most people find them next to useless. gspd even had a video on it...Mine will only start the bike if it's well warm, but I don't ever use it to start the bike (anymore that is, demos are turned down).
It can be handy turning the engine over if doing tappets, but not as sensitive as turning the engine from the alternator.
Getting back to the original post, I've heard there was a difference but unsure where from or if it was valid even.
The fiche only show one item...
12 14 2 325 284 IGNITION CONTROL UNIT (from 09/80) $176.54
12 14 2 325 284 IGNITION CONTROL UNIT $176.54...88-on... http://www.largiader.com/articles/ignition/ Open Anton's page...scroll down a little to the coil/icm bit for some further info.
They are indeed different...found out the hard way when substituted non-kicker module on my kicker 81 R100. Think Barry is right abut the delay to coil cutoff. While I could use it for electric start could never kick her over...mind you I never kick her too often and was difficult even with the correct module.
Think Snowbum had something on reason for the difference or maybe Oak...
Why do you ask Jeff....contemplating a "kicker" upgrade to the RS box?
moosehead wrote:Think Snowbum had something on reason for the difference
Snowbum, in all his verboseness:
"The Ignition Modules (under the tank modules) were initially made in two versions. On these early modules, a spark could occur when the key was first turned on. One version was for the kickstart bikes, one version was for the no-kickstart bikes. The original modules had a timing feature that cut off the current flow AFTER about 5 seconds for the kickstarter equipped bikes, and about 1 second or so for the NO kickstarter equipped bikes. Later this was changed to about 1.5 seconds (UNclear to me, but perhaps this 1.5 was for both...or for the kickstarter equipped bikes...not sure). The kickstart modules timings were originally longer to allow time to kickstart the bike.Which is a bit strange, since engine rotation causes the modules to be triggered anyway.The reasoning behind the shorter cutoff for later models is to lower heating of the coils, which supposedly was THE, or only one of the, causes for the original twin-tower gray coil to fail by cracking. Apparently, some folks would turn on the key, and continue a conversation, without starting the motor. Perhaps some very early modules never had a timer at all. The coil redesign for reliability (no more cracking) did not result in any change in the electrical characteristics of the coil."
I even threw in the coloring just so you could get the "full" effect!
On my Monolever 
From what I've seen of kick start demonstrations, I'd say your spot on Barry!
