And they make that adhesive in black now (well, greenish black).Duane Ausherman wrote:The yellow stuff is what we used to good effect. We called it gorilla snot. The trick is to prepare it correctly and let it dry quite well before applying the badge. It will be completely dry and one would think that nothing would stick to it. Wrong, it grips very well.George Ryals wrote:3M also has a trim adhesive. It's probably close to the same formula as the weatherstriping adhesive. I think the trim adhesive is black where the weatherstriping stuff is a yellowish color.
Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
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Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
Yeah, good old gorilla snot appears to have been discontinued.
MS - out
Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
Thanks all! I do have gorilla snot (used it for the kneepads) but as the roundels are concave (behind) and their place on the tank is not a matching convex I'll probably use a mix of the double sided tape and gorilla snot when they go back on.
Call me Mel. Some years ago- never mind how long precisely- having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me at home, I thought I would ride about a little and see the other parts of the world.
Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
Just a thought, forget the double sided tape. A couple dabs of glue like Household Goop fore and aft (like where the screws are on the screw on emblems) would be more than enough, and make it much less of a PITA to remove them in the future, should the need arise.
Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
I use black silicon (autoparts store) for these applications. I use masking tape to hold the emblem in place while it dries.
- George Ryals
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Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
Fill the back of the roundels with JB weld (or something like that) screed it off flat...let it cure completely. Then use the weather stripping adhesive (we call it yellow death) in the contact cement mode. Thin coat on the surfaces to be attached to each other. Let it dry completely. Very carefully place the roundel on the tank. There are no easy do-overs when using contact cement mode.
Smile it's contagious!
'74 R90S, '67 /2 Conv w/sc, '66 R50/2
'74 Harley FXE, '72 Harley FLH w/HD sc
'69 BSA 441 Victor Special, '74 R90/6 Basket case
'85 R80RT wreck for parts
'74 R90S, '67 /2 Conv w/sc, '66 R50/2
'74 Harley FXE, '72 Harley FLH w/HD sc
'69 BSA 441 Victor Special, '74 R90/6 Basket case
'85 R80RT wreck for parts
Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
Try new roundels. Get the placement right with tape mark offs. Clean off the area with distilled alcohol as it will remove any wax, dirt or petro chemicals and a wipe down with clean, no lint rag. Use a hair drier and heat the tank area little warm to touch and to ensure no water or alcohol is left on surface. Apply the roundels. the bond will last until they age to yellow in 20 years.
I always brake in corners and think how I am going to get home if I really mess up. When I get home, I wished that I hadn't used my brakes and should have ridden a bit further.
Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
Distilled alcohol? Maybe denatured alcohol.
Guy
Guy
Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
De cantered alcohol works a treat.guy wrote:Distilled alcohol? Maybe denatured alcohol.
Guy
Lord of the Bings
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Re: Annoyed--Roundel Adhesive Situation
In the UK there is an adhesive that goes under the edifying name of 'Sticks like Sh*t' (complete with the asterisk). .. and it does (stick like sh*t that is). Its marketed as a 'hi grab' building adhesive and is available in white or clear.
It will stick just about anything to just about anything including plastics and polished metals and is a hi-fill material which means it'll stick even when the mating surfaces are uneven.
I've used it in a number of applications in all sorts of fields, including construction and automotive, including repairing fairing tabs (with reinforcement of course) and re-attaching trim parts to vehicles. Never known it to fail...
I've not used it to attach tank badges... yet... because the need hsan't arisen but it's the first thing I'd reach for.
The only slight drawback is that it takes several hours to dry and 24hrs to reach full strength.
May not be available in the US (under that name at least) but, if you can track it down it's ideal for this sort of application.
Rob
BTW, just tried to attach a picture and got a message "The forum attachment limit has been reached".
R
It will stick just about anything to just about anything including plastics and polished metals and is a hi-fill material which means it'll stick even when the mating surfaces are uneven.
I've used it in a number of applications in all sorts of fields, including construction and automotive, including repairing fairing tabs (with reinforcement of course) and re-attaching trim parts to vehicles. Never known it to fail...
I've not used it to attach tank badges... yet... because the need hsan't arisen but it's the first thing I'd reach for.
The only slight drawback is that it takes several hours to dry and 24hrs to reach full strength.
May not be available in the US (under that name at least) but, if you can track it down it's ideal for this sort of application.
Rob
BTW, just tried to attach a picture and got a message "The forum attachment limit has been reached".
R