5 speed ribbed tranny rebuild

[georgesgiralt]

Well if you add an arm long enough the torque wrench will only give 108 Nm ! At the end of the arm, the torque will have reached 240 !
You can test my saying when you'll have the proper 240 Nm wrench by putting it in a wise and torquing it with the small one and an extension.
The key work in torque is length. And torque is defined by force times length.
Look at the calculation you make when torquing the 4 12 sides bolts on the rear shaft. The adapter you add to the wrench force you to reduce the setting of the wrench to account for the extended length of the wrench ...

[Major Softie]

I think we have a failure to communicate here.

Different people are talking about different extensions.

George is talking about an extension that goes from the drive head of the torque wrench to the fastener. Such an extension would allow you to multiply the torque you are applying with your wrench, so the torque reading on your wrench would be the torque you were applying at one end of the extension, while the other end would be applying a multiple of that torque to the fastener (which would depend on the length of the extension). This will allow more torque to be applied to the fastener without putting any extra stress on the torque wrench.

Here is a calculator to determine where you set your wrench depending on the extension length and torque desired:

http://www.norbar.com/calculators/torqu ... lator.aspx

I think that, like me, ME109 was thinking at first that you were talking about putting an extension on the handle of the torque wrench. THAT would put lots of extra stress on the wrench, and you would have to guess how much torque you were putting on the fastener as you exceeded the measuring capacity of the wrench.

[ME 109]

On the ball again Major!
Now I get it.
I'll check out the tables after work.
I could make a torque arm adaptor.

[georgesgiralt]

Hi !
As English is far from my mother's tongue, I've often a hard time to make me clear. I suppose this is a lack of vocabulary and cultural difference !

[ME 109]

Hi !
As English is far from my mother's tongue, I've often a hard time to make me clear. I suppose this is a lack of vocabulary and cultural difference !

Not to worry George, your help is much appreciated.
I'm going to see my mechanic brother on boxing day and I'll use his torque wrench. I hereby declare boxing day 'gearboxing day'

I have been giving lots of thought to Roberts advice to give the input shaft a whack once the cover is back on.
I did such whacking and found it to have a significant effect on loosening the shaft. (after measuring everything again and still finding a tight input shaft once the cover plate was installed)
What presented as a tight input shaft, suggesting too much shim height, became a loose input shaft suggesting all was well.
The 'whack' either seats the input shaft bearing further into the cover plate pocket? or it ever so slightly distorts the cover plate.
Interesting to see what a few heat cycles does to the end play clearance.

Another reason for much discussion is that the end play clearance specified is about that of the thickness of a cigarette paper.
50 microns.

[georgesgiralt]

In my BMW factory manual for the 78_84 R65 they give a play from 0 to 0.1 mm so in fact the bearing should be stopped in moving but not tightly pressed. This make sense as the gears exert an axial pressure during operation. So the load is split between the balls in the bearings and the housing.
As per the whacking, all mechanics I've spoken to advise to whack once with a medium size hammer while the gearbox is hot to ascertain the shafts are in place. They told me (after I re-assembled the gearbox ) to insert the sealing gaskets AFTER having sealed the box in order to check if the shafts are really free to play (the pressure of the lips of the two gasket is enough to make the shafts stiff... so preventing the sense of the play with your fingers.)
My back pain prevents me to finish re-assembling the bike so my gearbox spring repair will have to wait a few days...

[ME 109]

45 minutes and the loaner tranny from Ducati pete was on the ground.
2+ hours later, my tranny with its new bearings and taller 5th was back in the bike.

I've just returned from a half hour ride with plenty of gear changes and plenty of 5th gear riding.

The verdict is..............

Sweet!

Smooth, positive changes up and down with no false neutrals. The drop in rpm @ 130k is about 500rpm, so it seems.
130 K used to sit @ 5000 iirc. Now it's 4500.
The unloaded, no pillion RS pulls without issue in 5th gear roll ons.
The speeds mentioned are 'indicated' on the speedometer.

Although I purchased all springs for the shift mechanism, I left them unchanged.

A new neutral switch failed to correct the neutral light coming on in all gears, and going off in neutral.
WTF! that's two switches in a row working backwards. One from Munich Motorcycles and one from Motobins. They can't have both got it wrong could they?
What other issue could cause this?
Ducatipete's neutral switch in the loaner tranny worked as it should.
Not that I need the green light, but seeing I was in there.....

Me likey!

[Garnet]

[SteveD]

Sounds good Jeff. Well done.

There are two switches available I believe. Sounds like you got the wrong one.

[hzbloke]

Excellent news Jeff. Another triumph for the common man (don't take that personally). The gearboxes just aren't all that scary once you get inside them but committing to having a go is pretty ballsy. Well done. Cheers, Ray