Spun left rear bearing

[woodpile]

While inspecting the hub of my /5 this morning I was quite surprised to have the outer left race pop out with just a slight pull. I consulted my manual and Duane's article on bearings where he says its possible to locktite the race in or machine a spacer to fit. Any Ideas on my best course of action? I would have to send it out for machining if any shop even has experience doing that job. After seeing the price of a new hub I sure hope I'm not looking at that route.

[fig]

I had this happen as well and used loctite to secure the race. There's a special type to use but I don't remember which one it is, maybe some one else will.
I haven't had any problems since the repair, which was about 4000 miles ago.

DF

[melville]

Loctite Sleeve Retainer is the stuff. It should work if the clearance is minimal--Loctite say up to .2mm or .008" but I think that's under ideal conditions--steel on steel, low impact, etc. .008" is a 'rattly' fit at best.

[woodpile]

I think loctite is the way to go on this one,I'll have to see if my local parts store can get some in. If it works then great,if not then I'll search out a used hub. I might as well try it.

[barryh]

Any evidence from the pre-load setting as to how the bearing got spun.

When I got my bike 6 years ago I had already read Duane's article on wheel bearings. I was dismayed to find the rear wheel bearings had grossly excessive pre-load with all the play disappearing at 5ftlbs or less. I needed to add a .004" shim to get it right. The bearings were OK even though I'm almost 100% certain it left the factory in that condition as the bike had only done 6000 miles in 28 years and still had the original tires fitted.

[Deleted User 62]

If there is actual side to side movement of the race, it may be possible to use a section of a feeler gauge to act as a shim to take up the slack.

[Major Softie]

If there is actual side to side movement of the race, it may be possible to use a section of a feeler gauge to act as a shim to take up the slack.

If it's that bad, I say have it machined and sleeved. Otherwise you have centering issues - always bad, but especially bad thing on a drum hub.

[woodpile]

I just picked this ride up a month ago so this is the 1st time I've had the wheel off to do some inspection on it. The axle came out with a little tap and the nut wasnt excessively tight but the wheel itself took some effort to clear the final drive. I suspect the previous owner wrenched it down too tight at some point and slightly bent the swingarm, possibly damaging the race as well. The race itself did take a slight tug to pop out, it wasn't just rattling around in there. One of the machinists that I work with who owns/ rebuilds a 502ci pulling tractor said he has had good results with the locktite product. After calling around today it seems like getting it sleeved correctly would probably cost as much as a new hub. The drive splines were also liberally covered in silver anti sieze, better than nothing I suppose.

[Major Softie]

The drive splines were also liberally covered in silver anti sieze, better than nothing I suppose.

Should make it easy to remove the wheel...

[woodpile]

The hub easily separated from the final drive, it was more of a clearance issue on getting the hub/rim past the final drive to get it out. It's not the worst one I've dealt with by far.