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Re: 10 years later........
Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2026 5:25 am
by JohnT
Like the leading link forks using the bikes sliders, neat.
Re: 10 years later........
Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2026 7:26 am
by SteveD
CRC! Too easy. 
Half way there.
Just so happens this week...
viewtopic.php?t=12342
Re: 10 years later........
Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2026 6:24 pm
by Arado Ar234
Managed to find a locksmith to cut a key, as I can take the whole tank in to him. Saves destroying the cap drilling it out. Of course, I'll never lock it again. The other question is cleaning out the inside of the tank.....does anyone have any idea how to clean all the scale and crap out of it without costing a million dollars, or damaging it. . Never had to do it before....
Re: 10 years later........
Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2026 7:09 pm
by Kurt in S.A.
Here's Snowbum's page on tank cleaning:
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/fuelmiscl.htm
Probably will need to reseal it??
Kurt
Re: 10 years later........
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2026 12:42 am
by Arado Ar234
Thanks Kurt...Snowbum really gets into the absolute molecular level of everything about BM's, and is probably the most knowledgeable person out there. Currently uncovering lots of boxed up spares as I continue to chip away at the project. .....
Re: 10 years later........
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2026 6:20 am
by Arado Ar234
Just to put it out there...sidecar use is really hard on rear wheel bearings on the twin shock bikes. The hub on a cast snowflake wheel is as sloppy as, so I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts of supporting the tapered roller bearing cup using Devcon. Currently, the cup just falls out....
Re: 10 years later........
Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2026 3:13 pm
by melville
Yes, I've used the Loctite Sleeve Retainer in an application like that. It works best when it's a press fit that has deteriorated to a slip fit. It may not work if the slip fit has become a rattle fit.
Re: 10 years later........
Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2026 11:16 am
by Bill Smith
Arado Ar234 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 17, 2026 4:43 pm
So, as you can see, it is rather modified, and somewhat mouldy after 10 Tasmanian winters, which last for 11 months of the year. I have a myriad of spares for this one, including 3 gearboxes, barrels, pistons, heads, carbies etc. Currently using the rear swing arm and final drive from a 75/7 as the sidecar wheel and suspension system. That rust welded fuel cap is the only thing that is really concerning me right now......can't apply heat obviously, although it would be spectacular to watch from a distance. Thinking about turning the tank upside down and pouring penetrating oil into it once I remove the fuel taps. If anyone has another idea, I'd be happy to hear it.
The best penetrating oil I've found is a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. It beats anything I've bought commercially.