I have a ‘74 R60/6 that’s been running like a champ for the 3 months I’ve had it. I’ve changed the oil and filters and cables a month ago with no issues. I changed the points and condenser yesterday with no issues and rode it around after for a while. I set the valve clearances cold today and now I can’t get it to start up. I’ll attached before and after videos.
Video of issue - https://youtu.be/YhmXLEebPhM
Video of good start - https://youtu.be/V4GKyG7UJ5s
What do I start with to diagnose? Thanks!
‘74 r60/6 starting issue after valve adjustment
Re: ‘74 r60/6 starting issue after valve adjustment
I bought a 77 R60/7 for cheap because the owner had adjusted the valves and then it was noisy and down on power.
Ran well after I adjusted the valves and I sold it for 2x what I paid. He put the engine to TDC and adjusted all 4 valves!
Unless you did something that totally wrong I doubt a valve adjustment would stop the engine from running.
- Was the valve adjustment close when you did the adjustment? I mean only a thou or two off. If the adjustment was way off then check your procedures
- If you only adjusted a thou or two, and since it was running ok before; double check the spark. Also check the fuel tap is on.
Mike
Ran well after I adjusted the valves and I sold it for 2x what I paid. He put the engine to TDC and adjusted all 4 valves!
Unless you did something that totally wrong I doubt a valve adjustment would stop the engine from running.
- Was the valve adjustment close when you did the adjustment? I mean only a thou or two off. If the adjustment was way off then check your procedures
- If you only adjusted a thou or two, and since it was running ok before; double check the spark. Also check the fuel tap is on.
Mike
67 R50/2 w/R100 drivetrain and Ural S/C
65 R60/2
76 R90S 154K Miles
77 R100RS 127K Miles
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle sidecar
65 R60/2
76 R90S 154K Miles
77 R100RS 127K Miles
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle sidecar
Re: ‘74 r60/6 starting issue after valve adjustment
Thanks, Mike. Isn’t that the correct way to adjust? TDC on one side, adjust clearance, rotate to TDC on the other and adjust clearance? Not much change at all on the valves at all. I’m going to check points again to make sure the wire didn’t get tangled up in the advance unit. Fuel was definitely on.
Does it sound like anything to you guys?
Does it sound like anything to you guys?
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Kurt in S.A.
- Posts: 1647
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:08 pm
Re: ‘74 r60/6 starting issue after valve adjustment
Be sure that when you find TDC on say the left cylinder that it is TDC "on the compression stroke". If you set clearances at that point on the left cylinder, rotating the engine 360 degrees should put the right side at TDC on the compression stroke.
Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
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Rob Frankham
- Posts: 1214
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:11 pm
- Location: Scotland UK, 20 miles from civilisation up a dead end road!
- Contact:
Re: ‘74 r60/6 starting issue after valve adjustment
I'm sure you've thought of this... but... the one fuel tap I can see is off.
Anyway... back to basics.
Axiom 1) If there's fuel in the right proportion and a spark at the right time, it'll run.
Axiom 2) If you've just been working on it and it won't run , first check the work you did.
Bearing in mind that you've just been working on the ignition system, that's the place to start... Pull the plugs, put them back in the caps, ground them by resting them on the metal of the engine and turn it over on the starter. No spark? check that the points are actually opening... Check the new condensor (a bad condensor even from new isn't that unknown). Refit the old condensor (if it was working) and see if the bike starts... Check all of the connections.
Static check the timing...
Check the connections at the coil (even though you probably haven't disturbed them).
Check to make sure you're getting a good solid battery voltage at the green/black (or is it green/blue on this model) connection to the coils.
Check that there is battery voltage at the connection to the points points when they are open (they will be at zero volts when the points are closed)
Check that the static timing is correct.
If you're getting a spark, check your valve adjustment. Bear in mind that the engine must be at TDC on the compression stroke, (not just any TDC) before you adjust them... it's possible to adjust them on the wrong TDC and then go and do the other side also at the wrong TDC, in which case, the engine might well be very reluctant to start.
If all of this fails, then you're looking at fuel... My advice would be to set both carbs back to factory default settings, check for fuel flow, cheack the float height and check that the enricheners (chokes) are fully off. You can always fine tune the carbs when you've got the bike running.
FWIW, I would put (a small amount of) money on a dodgy condensor. I would also say that I wouldn't replace a condensor unless it had actually failed. A new one is probably as likely to fail as an old one and they almost always fail completely. Carry a spare if you're worried about it.
I'm aware that much of the above is probably teaching Grandma and if it is, I apologise, but not knowing you're level of knowledge, it's better to start from scratch.
Good luck
Rob
Anyway... back to basics.
Axiom 1) If there's fuel in the right proportion and a spark at the right time, it'll run.
Axiom 2) If you've just been working on it and it won't run , first check the work you did.
Bearing in mind that you've just been working on the ignition system, that's the place to start... Pull the plugs, put them back in the caps, ground them by resting them on the metal of the engine and turn it over on the starter. No spark? check that the points are actually opening... Check the new condensor (a bad condensor even from new isn't that unknown). Refit the old condensor (if it was working) and see if the bike starts... Check all of the connections.
Static check the timing...
Check the connections at the coil (even though you probably haven't disturbed them).
Check to make sure you're getting a good solid battery voltage at the green/black (or is it green/blue on this model) connection to the coils.
Check that there is battery voltage at the connection to the points points when they are open (they will be at zero volts when the points are closed)
Check that the static timing is correct.
If you're getting a spark, check your valve adjustment. Bear in mind that the engine must be at TDC on the compression stroke, (not just any TDC) before you adjust them... it's possible to adjust them on the wrong TDC and then go and do the other side also at the wrong TDC, in which case, the engine might well be very reluctant to start.
If all of this fails, then you're looking at fuel... My advice would be to set both carbs back to factory default settings, check for fuel flow, cheack the float height and check that the enricheners (chokes) are fully off. You can always fine tune the carbs when you've got the bike running.
FWIW, I would put (a small amount of) money on a dodgy condensor. I would also say that I wouldn't replace a condensor unless it had actually failed. A new one is probably as likely to fail as an old one and they almost always fail completely. Carry a spare if you're worried about it.
I'm aware that much of the above is probably teaching Grandma and if it is, I apologise, but not knowing you're level of knowledge, it's better to start from scratch.
Good luck
Rob
Re: ‘74 r60/6 starting issue after valve adjustment
Duane would be proud. 
FWIW, I would put (a small amount of) money on a dodgy condensor. I would also say that I wouldn't replace a condensor unless it had actually failed. A new one is probably as likely to fail as an old one and they almost always fail completely. Carry a spare if you're worried about it.
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.
1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
Victoria, S.E.Oz.
1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.