NEW Regulator/Rectifier unit, now no power to starter?

[CHEWY1219]

Hey everyone. I am stumped! I purchased Ricks Regulator/Rectifier combo for BMWs, also for Lithium specific batteries.

https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Un ... le-14_0012

I installed as per instruction, which includes removing the diode board and regulator and wiring related to. I also watched a video of a guy on YouTube installing his to make sure I was going in the right direction.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxm6AhL ... WL&index=2

Seemed fairly straightforward. After install, which I am fairly certain is correct since it's only 8 wires, my starter solenoid just clicks (or there is a clicking in that general area) After removal of the diode board, is it the wire on the right side of the board that needs to go somewhere? I don't see any loose connections anywhere either and brand new battery is fully charged.
Video of clicking....

https://youtube.com/shorts/PCqpM6nQaqs?feature=share

PS. before this, bike was running perfectly:)

[gspd]

That's your starter relay clicking when you push the start button, should be easy to find it.

First thing is to check that you didn't accidentally disconnect a wire at the starter solenoid itself, or at the relay.
If it's not disconnected, check (with a test light) if it has power when you press the starter button.

The wire that goes to the right side of the board is a live wire that connects to full unfused battery power at the starter. It appears to be unnecessary in this installation (as per video you posted) although It could have been used as a short cut for the positive side battery wire from the module.
For the record, I wouldn't let that guy near my bike.

From experience....Be sure your new module is well grounded and in a well ventilated location or it won't last long.

[CHEWY1219]

That's your starter relay clicking when you push the start button, should be easy to find it.

First thing is to check that you didn't accidentally disconnect a wire at the starter solenoid itself, or at the relay.
If it's not disconnected, check (with a test light) if it has power when you press the starter button.

The wire that goes to the right side of the board is a live wire that connects to full unfused battery power at the starter. It appears to be unnecessary in this installation (as per video you posted) although It could have been used as a short cut for the positive side battery wire from the module.
For the record, I wouldn't let that guy near my bike.

From experience....Be sure your new module is well grounded and in a well ventilated location or it won't last long.

Thank you for your response!! I will start with this today and try to get this sorted!

BTW i didn't remove any wires from the solenoid yet like the guy in the video...I just snipped and taped for the moment (the black wire that he removed from the solenoid). Was gonna tidy that up last.

[Kurt in S.A.]

For the record, I wouldn't let that guy near my bike.

Me either. I just can't unsee that.

Kurt

[Rob Frankham]

Agree with GSPD. The click is definitely the starter relay. The problem is in the feed between the ignition switch up to (and including) the solenoid.

My advice would be to work back from the solenoid. Use your test light or meter to check for volts at the end of the thin black wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button. If there is battery voltage (or thereabouts), then the solenoid is faulty. If there isn't, move back to the starter relay and identify the other end of that wire and check for voltage in the same way at that point. If there is, then the wire or connection is faulty. If not, then the relay is probably dead.

If you're using a test lamp with a filament bulb (not a LED), you can make the tests with the wires disconnected because the current through the lamp will be sufficient to show up a poor connection. If, however, you are using a LED test light or a multimeter, it is important for the wires to be connected as you make the test becasue the low current required by these test methods can show a false good reading when in fact there is a high resistance connection.

In passing, I'm not very impressed by that unit. It seems to me that the cherging output wire (Orange wire) is far to thin for the current it might be required to carry (up to 20 amps). Compare it to the wire that normally connects between the diode board and the solenoid (the one you have 'snipped and taped') to see what I mean.

Also have to say that 'crimp' connectors in a charge circuit and the reg/rec installed (sort of) in the tool tray are not going to lead to a long life for the thing (although, the poor connections and thin wire might reduce the output enough to limit the heat that isn't being carried away ) Not the best video ever!

Rob

[CHEWY1219]

Agree with GSPD. The click is definitely the starter relay. The problem is in the feed between the ignition switch up to (and including) the solenoid.

My advice would be to work back from the solenoid. Use your test light or meter to check for volts at the end of the thin black wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button. If there is battery voltage (or thereabouts), then the solenoid is faulty. If there isn't, move back to the starter relay and identify the other end of that wire and check for voltage in the same way at that point. If there is, then the wire or connection is faulty. If not, then the relay is probably dead.

If you're using a test lamp with a filament bulb (not a LED), you can make the tests with the wires disconnected because the current through the lamp will be sufficient to show up a poor connection. If, however, you are using a LED test light or a multimeter, it is important for the wires to be connected as you make the test becasue the low current required by these test methods can show a false good reading when in fact there is a high resistance connection.

In passing, I'm not very impressed by that unit. It seems to me that the cherging output wire (Orange wire) is far to thin for the current it might be required to carry (up to 20 amps). Compare it to the wire that normally connects between the diode board and the solenoid (the one you have 'snipped and taped') to see what I mean.

Also have to say that 'crimp' connectors in a charge circuit and the reg/rec installed (sort of) in the tool tray are not going to lead to a long life for the thing (although, the poor connections and thin wire might reduce the output enough to limit the heat that isn't being carried away ) Not the best video ever!

Rob

Thank you! I have a buddy coming over in the morning to help me get sorted; he is great with wiring!

Yeah the cat in the video is a bit suspect, but he was the clearest on the install process that I could find!

[CHEWY1219]

My advice would be to work back from the solenoid. Use your test light or meter to check for volts at the end of the thin black wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button. If there is battery voltage (or thereabouts), then the solenoid is faulty. If there isn't, move back to the starter relay and identify the other end of that wire and check for voltage in the same way at that point. If there is, then the wire or connection is faulty. If not, then the relay is probably dead.

One more thing...so I am clear, it's the small black wire running from the relay to the solenoid that is the main one for initiating the starter?

[melville]

My advice would be to work back from the solenoid. Use your test light or meter to check for volts at the end of the thin black wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button. If there is battery voltage (or thereabouts), then the solenoid is faulty. If there isn't, move back to the starter relay and identify the other end of that wire and check for voltage in the same way at that point. If there is, then the wire or connection is faulty. If not, then the relay is probably dead.

One more thing...so I am clear, it's the small black wire running from the relay to the solenoid that is the main one for initiating the starter?

Yes, the small black wire is the signal to the solenoid. The big wires are direct from the battery (black, probably) and direct from the charging system (red).

[CHEWY1219]

Issue solved! The small black wire was suspect and has a small section that was basically broken in two. Fixed now on to the next!

Thanks all!!

[Rob Frankham]

Glad you got it sorted...

Rob